Tuna Carnitas

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Toast 3 morita chiles, stems removed, in a medium Dutch oven over medium heat, turning occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 1 medium tomato, halved, 1 medium yellow onion, halved, 10 garlic cloves, smashed, 1 lb. dried pinto beans, and 1 avocado leaf (if using); pour in water to cover by at least 2". Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently, adding water as needed to keep beans submerged, 1½ hours.

   Step 2

   Add 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt and continue to cook until beans are tender, 45–60 minutes. Remove avocado leaf; discard. Drain beans through a mesh sieve set over a medium bowl; set bean cooking liquid aside. Return beans and solids to pot.

   Step 3

   Meanwhile, cook 8 oz. bacon, coarsely chopped, in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and very crisp, about 20 minutes. Transfer bacon to a small bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving fat behind. Set skillet with fat aside.

   Step 4

   Place 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced, in a small heatproof bowl. Bring 1 Tbsp. sugar, 1 cup distilled white vinegar, 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ½ cup water to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium, then pour over red onion and set aside to pickle.

   Step 5

   Add bacon, 1 tsp. dried oregano, 1 tsp. garlic powder, 1 tsp. ground coriander, 1 tsp. smoked paprika, 2 cups reserved bean cooking liquid, and remaining 3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar to pot with bean mixture. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Season bean mixture with more salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can blend in batches in a regular blender.)

   Step 6

   Pour 1 cup vegetable oil into another medium Dutch oven or heavy pot (it should come about ½" up sides); fit with thermometer and heat over medium-high. Add bean mixture and cook, stirring and scraping bottom and sides of pot with a heatproof rubber spatula, until homogeneous and emulsified, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface (this will prevent a skin from forming).

   Step 7

   Season 1 lb. tuna steaks, patted dry, cut into 1" pieces, with salt, then place in a medium bowl. Add ¼ cup (45 g) rice flour or cornstarch; toss to coat. Pour fresh oil into reserved skillet with fat to come 1" up sides. Fit with thermometer and heat until thermometer registers about 400°. Working in batches, cook tuna, tossing constantly, until lightly crisped on the outside but still a little pink in the center, about 30 seconds per batch. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt.

   Step 8

   Scoop beans onto plates and smooth into an even layer; top with tuna, drained pickled onion, and microgreens or cilantro. Serve with warmed tortillas and lime wedges.