How did formerly stodgy Sherry become the darling of hip sommeliers and fashionable drinkers? Simple: The Spanish fortified wine (brandy is added after fermentation to boost the alcohol content) is deliciously unique: sometimes sweet, sometimes saline and bracingly dry, often nutty and whiskey-like. It pairs well with food, from appetizers to desserts. While complex enough to be sipped on its own, Sherry is easily co-opted by crafty bartenders. In fact, it's hard to say who appeared first on Sherry's unlikely road to cool: the oeno-dude enjoying a cold predinner fino or the mixologist who subbed oloroso for bourbon in search of a lower-octane cocktail. No matter; everyone's drinking it now. Oh, and did we mention that it's a great bargain? In fact, it's one of the best—and last—values in wine, and value never goes out of style.
Sherry is an "It" cocktail ingredient, with enough heft to build a drink around but still relatively low in alcohol.
Hey Hey, My My
From Ava Gene's, Portland, Oregon
Combine 1 1/2 oz. Aperol, 3/4 oz. fino Sherry, 1 oz. fresh grapefruit juice, 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice, and 1/4 oz. honey simple syrup (shake 3 Tbsp. honey with 1 Tbsp. hot water; chill) in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice, cover, and shake until outside of shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass. Makes 1
Sherry's long history makes it catnip for wine nerds, but here's a simple guide to the main styles. Note: Always serve Sherry at fridge temperature.
Fino and Manzanilla
Both can be light, salty, yeasty, and very dry. Pair with oysters and other seafood.
El Maestro Sierra Fino, $18/375 ml
Oloroso
Nutty, dark, and rich. Typically dry, but may be sweetened. Pair with braised meats or aged cheese.
Emilio Lustau Very Rare, $30/750 ml
Pedro Ximénez
The sweet grape often referred to as "PX" yields a syrupy wine. Drizzle over vanilla ice cream.
Bodegas Toro Albalá "Don PX," $28/375 ml
Cream
Despite the name, it's not especially creamy, nor as sweet as a PX. Drink it on its own or pair it with foie gras.
Hidalgo Alameda Cream, $16/500 ml
Ditch the dainty traditional copita and go with this repurposed rosé glass.
Vineyard Rose, $15; crateandbarrel.com