A picture of fried chicken wings and boneless thighs at Jojo
Fried chicken wings and jojos at Jojo
Nick Woo/EPDX

10 Chicken-and-Jojo Champs in Portland

Where to find the iconic fried duo around the city

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Fried chicken wings and jojos at Jojo
| Nick Woo/EPDX

Sure, Portland might be known for its food carts, craft beer scene, and coffee culture, but the city has never been famous for a singular foodstuff. While Philadelphia might be synonymous with cheesesteaks and Chicago is blessed (or cursed, depending on perspective) with deep-dish pies, the only food that comes close to being arguably iconic in Portland is chicken and jojos.

For the uninitiated, jojos are what happens when a russet potato gets cut into thick wedges, seasoned and battered like a chicken-fried steak, and traditionally, given some time in a pressure fryer — a.k.a. a “broaster.” The concept wasn’t invented here, but calling potatoes jojos — and serving them with ranch for dipping — is a regional quirk.

Chicken and jojos are a convenience store staple, and supermarket chains like Fred Meyer and Safeway often have decent deli case versions. But for the destination spots, this map is the place to start. For those who care more about chicken than jojos, check out the dedicated fried chicken map.

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Cider Mill & Fryer Tuck Chicken

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Hillsdale’s dark and cozy Cider Mill Lounge also houses Fryer Tuck Chicken, a legendary source of chicken and jojos. As elsewhere, jojos here go by another name, “spuds,” an inadequate moniker for these hefty fried potato wedges. Diners can choose from full dinners with chicken, spuds, and a choice of sides or the snack box meals, with chicken by the piece, spuds, and ranch dip.

Jojo Food Truck blasted onto the scene in 2019 with its delightfully unhinged social media presence and Instagram bait like Flamin’ Hot chicken sandwiches. Years years later, the popular local business got a Pearl District glow-up with an airy, plant-filled brick-and-mortar location serving cocktails. The restaurant sells boneless thighs, popcorn chicken, and tenders alongside the shop’s crispy, mashed potato-fluffy jojos, with a variety of house sauces ranging from house ranch or barbecue sauce to pepper relish or Alabama white mustard. In addition to the impeccably seasoned fried chicken and jojos, diners can now order brunch —including a robust vegan menu — on the weekends.

Cullen's Corner

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Like Alberta Market — and less than a mile west on the same street — Cullen’s Corner is also a convenience store with a strong fried chicken and jojos game, popular with Jefferson High School students and neighborhood regulars. Fair warning: if hitting this spot during off-peak hours, the heated food case might be woefully bare. With most of the hot food, including corn dogs and taquitos, being a bonafide bargain, this makes sense.

Alberta Market

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Sometimes referred to as Jack’s Chicken, it’s no secret that this corner market is legendary for its fried wings. And if one thing is certain, where there’s wings, there’s often jojos. The action is at the heated food case up front, which is a glorious blur of golden corn dogs, egg rolls, and usually a few trays of chicken by the piece and potato wedges to be eaten with plenty of ranch and hot sauce.

Chicken and Guns

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With wood-fired whole birds and dips like chimichurri and habanero carrot sauce, this Hawthorne food cart doesn’t exactly do traditional chicken and jojos. But the “guns” in question — crispy potatoes, seasoned with lemon and sea salt, and served with pickled onions and creamy Peruvian aji sauce — are a welcome alternative to the usual.

Two baskets of chicken and jojos at Chicken & Guns in Portland.
chicken wings and “guns.”
Brooke Jackson-Glidden/Eater Portland

Mad Greek Deli

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This popular deli that’s expanded into more of a sports bar is a Burnside street institution. It’s not just known for gyros and souvlaki but also one of the city’s best jojo examples that aren’t called jojos. Fried potato wedges here go by “Greek fries” and are dressed up with Mediterranean seasonings like oregano; instead of being served with ranch, Mad Greek serves its Greek fries with omega sauce, a creamy mixture of mayonnaise, feta, and dill.

Reel M Inn

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When people in Portland think about their favorite spot for chicken and jojos, often the first name out of their mouth is the Reel’s. Division street’s iconic tchotchke-filled dive bar is beloved by Southern celebrity chefs, Texan restaurant owners, and Midwestern bartenders alike. The big secret: Reel M Inn refrigerates its chicken in its dredge for a few hours, which seasons the chicken and helps the skin adhere to the meat.

Big's Chicken

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With counter service locations on both sides of the greater Portland area, Big’s Chicken is known for its smoked Alabama-style chicken with “white gold” barbecue sauce, a tangy mayo-based condiment. Both spots also fry chicken thighs and jojos; one noteworthy menu development, available at happy hour, are the plates of jojos and shredded smoked chicken, smothered in creole gravy, and garnished with green onion, cotija, and white gold sauce.

A close-up of the fried chicken and jojos at Big’s.
Big’s chicken and jojos.
Nick Woo/Eater Portland

Hour Glass Pub & Eatery

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Chicken and jojos tend to be best enjoyed in their natural habitat, the dive bar. To experience a stellar version of this combo, head to Montavilla’s Hour Glass where the burnished wings and jojos are a perfect meal for perching on a barstool with a jukebox playing.

Sadie Mae's

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Up until 2018, this video poker bar near Mall 205 shared the same ownership as Reel M Inn, the inner southeast dive, famous for its fried chicken. Supposedly, Sadie Mae’s uses the same recipe, and there’s no question the chicken is well-seasoned with ultra-crackly skin. The massive jojos are so thickly cut, eating a wedge is practically like snacking on a whole baked potato.

Small blue plate of jojos and fried chicken.
Plate of Sadie Mae’s jojos and fried chicken.
Krista Garcia/Eater Portland

Cider Mill & Fryer Tuck Chicken

Hillsdale’s dark and cozy Cider Mill Lounge also houses Fryer Tuck Chicken, a legendary source of chicken and jojos. As elsewhere, jojos here go by another name, “spuds,” an inadequate moniker for these hefty fried potato wedges. Diners can choose from full dinners with chicken, spuds, and a choice of sides or the snack box meals, with chicken by the piece, spuds, and ranch dip.

Jojo

Jojo Food Truck blasted onto the scene in 2019 with its delightfully unhinged social media presence and Instagram bait like Flamin’ Hot chicken sandwiches. Years years later, the popular local business got a Pearl District glow-up with an airy, plant-filled brick-and-mortar location serving cocktails. The restaurant sells boneless thighs, popcorn chicken, and tenders alongside the shop’s crispy, mashed potato-fluffy jojos, with a variety of house sauces ranging from house ranch or barbecue sauce to pepper relish or Alabama white mustard. In addition to the impeccably seasoned fried chicken and jojos, diners can now order brunch —including a robust vegan menu — on the weekends.

Cullen's Corner

Like Alberta Market — and less than a mile west on the same street — Cullen’s Corner is also a convenience store with a strong fried chicken and jojos game, popular with Jefferson High School students and neighborhood regulars. Fair warning: if hitting this spot during off-peak hours, the heated food case might be woefully bare. With most of the hot food, including corn dogs and taquitos, being a bonafide bargain, this makes sense.

Alberta Market

Sometimes referred to as Jack’s Chicken, it’s no secret that this corner market is legendary for its fried wings. And if one thing is certain, where there’s wings, there’s often jojos. The action is at the heated food case up front, which is a glorious blur of golden corn dogs, egg rolls, and usually a few trays of chicken by the piece and potato wedges to be eaten with plenty of ranch and hot sauce.

Chicken and Guns

With wood-fired whole birds and dips like chimichurri and habanero carrot sauce, this Hawthorne food cart doesn’t exactly do traditional chicken and jojos. But the “guns” in question — crispy potatoes, seasoned with lemon and sea salt, and served with pickled onions and creamy Peruvian aji sauce — are a welcome alternative to the usual.

Two baskets of chicken and jojos at Chicken & Guns in Portland.
chicken wings and “guns.”
Brooke Jackson-Glidden/Eater Portland

Mad Greek Deli

This popular deli that’s expanded into more of a sports bar is a Burnside street institution. It’s not just known for gyros and souvlaki but also one of the city’s best jojo examples that aren’t called jojos. Fried potato wedges here go by “Greek fries” and are dressed up with Mediterranean seasonings like oregano; instead of being served with ranch, Mad Greek serves its Greek fries with omega sauce, a creamy mixture of mayonnaise, feta, and dill.

Reel M Inn

When people in Portland think about their favorite spot for chicken and jojos, often the first name out of their mouth is the Reel’s. Division street’s iconic tchotchke-filled dive bar is beloved by Southern celebrity chefs, Texan restaurant owners, and Midwestern bartenders alike. The big secret: Reel M Inn refrigerates its chicken in its dredge for a few hours, which seasons the chicken and helps the skin adhere to the meat.

Big's Chicken

With counter service locations on both sides of the greater Portland area, Big’s Chicken is known for its smoked Alabama-style chicken with “white gold” barbecue sauce, a tangy mayo-based condiment. Both spots also fry chicken thighs and jojos; one noteworthy menu development, available at happy hour, are the plates of jojos and shredded smoked chicken, smothered in creole gravy, and garnished with green onion, cotija, and white gold sauce.

A close-up of the fried chicken and jojos at Big’s.
Big’s chicken and jojos.
Nick Woo/Eater Portland

Hour Glass Pub & Eatery

Chicken and jojos tend to be best enjoyed in their natural habitat, the dive bar. To experience a stellar version of this combo, head to Montavilla’s Hour Glass where the burnished wings and jojos are a perfect meal for perching on a barstool with a jukebox playing.

Sadie Mae's

Up until 2018, this video poker bar near Mall 205 shared the same ownership as Reel M Inn, the inner southeast dive, famous for its fried chicken. Supposedly, Sadie Mae’s uses the same recipe, and there’s no question the chicken is well-seasoned with ultra-crackly skin. The massive jojos are so thickly cut, eating a wedge is practically like snacking on a whole baked potato.

Small blue plate of jojos and fried chicken.
Plate of Sadie Mae’s jojos and fried chicken.
Krista Garcia/Eater Portland

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