Zhug

In the traditional zhug recipe, chilies dominate, though other ingredients are the same: in an Israeli joke, Mummy Crocodile advises her children not to eat Yemeni Jews. I agree with another reader that the salt could be reduced. Most online zhug recipes specify 2 steps (dry-grind the spices with optional pre-toasting, then combine all ingredients in a blender), but I suspect that Ms. Hamilton has yet to meet the quick, simple recipe that she couldn't complicate.

Why not use a blender or food processor?

A mortar & pestle achieve a result entirely different than a machine does even for pesto. When stressed for time, I often use a machine. Only for garlic, I turn to a mortar & salt. The gelatinous paste dissolves into sauces, even tastes differently to me than sauteed chopped or sliced garlic. Time matters in life, if not to great cooks as much as to us in the every day. I think the rougher consistency of pounded herbs, the way the pestle releases oils differs from the knife of a machine.

I tasted it at Trader Joe’s sampler counter. Omg means omg. I bought it and my daughter who was visiting promptly took it back with her. Used it on sandwiches spreads and grilled meats fish veggies and what not. It’s very similar to Indian cilantro Mint chutney (does not have a drop of oil) but that added cardamom elevated it to a different level.

Harold McGee, in "On Food and Cooking" explains why mashed garlic has more kick. Garlic's pungent principle, allicin (see Wikipedia), a defense against herbivore predation, is produced within seconds by an enzyme, alliinase, which is released by damaged garlic bulb cells. Mincing/mashing crushes more cells than slicing/chopping, and so yields more allicin. To achieve the same result with a blender, blend garlic, salt & oil first before adding the other ingredients.

It's great to have Gabrielle Hamilton making these contributions. However, these recipes are for home cooks, and few home cooks have a mortar and pestle on hand for these quantities. The food processor or blender makes obvious sense. Since the Times adapts every single recipe in the Wednesday paper, including those by the devisor and including the one the by the U. S. baking champion, it's odd this recipe can't be adapted for the way most people will make it.

Parsley (Italian or regular) can substitute. I've made zhug in bulk (it freezes well) with parsley only when it happened to be on sale. I suspect that other readers' suggestions of Basil/Mint would be fine too, though off-season fresh basil is priced obscenely where I live. Also consider adding to the recipe 2 tbsp lemon juice and/or half a homemade preserved lemon, if you've made a batch: dehydrated limes (Limu Omani or omani limes) are used widely in the Gulf region and Iranian cuisine.

Way too salty would only do a tsp of salt

You might probably use a blender with a similar result, but you would cheat yourself out of the unforgettable experience of inhaling the wonderful scents slowly unfolding in the mortar. 30 minutes of such quality aroma-sensory therapy would cost you a hundred bucks at a wellness centre 😀

From the Saveur web-site: "A mortar and pestle crushes plants while a blade cuts them. And if you want to expel all the essential oils, full-bodied flavors, and unique body of a hunk of garlic or leaf of basil, crushing is the way to go. Plants are made of rigid, boxy structures that trap vital flavor inside. You need to rupture them to release that flavor, and crushing does so far more effectively than the thin blade of a knife."

The food in Yemen was fabulous. I've been trying to reproduce it ever since. I believe this ZHUG is the key to it. Therefore, after reading this recipe, I suspect that only going back to Yemen--where they obviously have mortars and pestles--would allow me to taste it again. Yemen's in a terrible humanitarian crisis. Our country's not helping. I'm too old to wait till the crisis is over. Thank you, Yemen, for the memories. I've tried to help you through the United Nations.

In the article GH does make mention to the use of the food processor. If you do have the time, do read the articles written by GH, or any of the other authors for that matter, she is a gifted writer. (I am curious does one really need directions to transition from a mortar and pestle to using a food processor? ;) )

Anything in the “soft, fragrant” family of herbs would work. I’d start with fresh mint or basil.

Answering the blender question; the mortar & pestle produces a different texture. In the case of garlic, it creates a different flavor. Furthermore, I doubt that you can powder the spice seeds in a blender or food processor. My toy is coarse granite. Heavier is better (unless you are prone to dropping it on your foot). It is a modest and very worthwhile investment that lasts forever. Although coarse it is nonporous making it easy to clean.

Have been making zichug my whole adult life. My recipe is quite different but the results are the same. Amazing.