If there’s one thing I’m sure of after years of testing Bon Appétit Thanksgiving recipes every July—and then making it all again for the real deal in November—it’s that people universally like carbs. Which is why, despite the preponderance of stuffing, mashed potatoes, and sweet potatoes already on the table, making dinner rolls is always a smart move.
I’m not talking about just any dinner rolls, though. These pull-apart ones are beyond tender and pillowy. They have a similar look to classic Parker House Rolls, but they're even more buttery and soft. This is thanks to a technique called tangzhong, which is used to make Japanese milk bread. It calls for a small amount of flour and milk to be cooked together to form a thick white roux. When the roux is combined with the dough ingredients, the cooked starches help the dough retain more moisture than it would otherwise (there's a super-sciency explanation, but let this suffice).
But wait! There’s even more: Toasted garlic butter is both in the dough and brushed onto the still-warm rolls to create a flavor and aroma that can only be described as irresistible. I guarantee these will disappear faster than the pumpkin pie.
The key to evenly sized, airy, and tall rolls is the way you form the dough into balls with your hands. You want to do this part as precisely as you can, because taut balls ensure an even proof (if you roll them casually and loosely, it’ll look the yeast is making them rise a lot faster than it actually is, and you’ll be tempted to bake them too soon). But at the same time, you also don’t want to take forever forming them, as that will cause the ones you finish first to proof long before the ones you finish last, causing an uneven texture from roll to roll. So, be careful—and quick. You’ve got this. Here’s what to do:
Divide dough into 15 pieces (about 1½ oz. each). Work with 1 piece at a time; cover the others with a sheet of plastic wrap as you go.
For each one, fold the edges of the dough underneath, pinching each at the bottom to seal. Turn 90° and fold and pinch again. Repeat the process a few times. The goal is a tight, round shape with seams underneath. Think of it like you're stretching the dough into the shape of balloon.
Place the ball on a clean surface and cup your hand around it. Drag the ball toward you, using friction between the surface and the dough to create tension and stretch the outer layer into a tight dome. This is to flatten out that seam at the bottom. Repeat with remaining balls.
One last note: You can make them smaller if you want more, but regardless, I like to serve them all attached. Having each person pull them apart is part of the fun! But whatever you do, stash one away for yourself for a sandwich the next day.
