A good fireworks photo can be quite striking, but it can also be tough to get. Smartphones make things a little easier thanks to their low light, live photo, and 4K video capabilities, but the settings and equipment you need to get top-notch, highly shareable fireworks pictures from a dedicated camera require a bit more know-how. Regardless of whether you're using a phone, an interchangeable lens camera (ILC), or a compact point-and-shoot, following our advice will help you get better snaps.
How to Photograph Fireworks With Your Smartphone
Smartphone cameras have improved by leaps and bounds over the last couple of years. But don't expect them to capture fireworks photos that wow you like a long-exposure image from a big camera. Even so, computational features can help.
If you have a recent flagship smartphone or even one that's a few years old, you have a camera in your pocket that, minus a truly capable zoom, competes with most point-and-shoot cameras. But fireworks are tough for phones. Their cameras work best for quick shots in low light because you can't typically do things like stop down the aperture. That puts the long exposure method I recommend later for SLRs and mirrorless cameras out of the picture.
So, vary your technique a bit. Enable HDR on your phone if you can and take advantage of specialized low-light modes (like Google's Night Sight or Apple's Night mode) to get more of a burst in one image. iPhone users should turn on Live Photos, too. If you have manual shooting controls, set the ISO to the lowest setting and the shutter speed to something short enough to handhold. You can extend this range a bit by adding a smartphone gimbal.
You need to play around with these settings based on the type of phone you have but start at 1/60-second and experiment until you get a dark sky and colorful fireworks bursts. Speaking of bursts, if your phone has a burst shooting mode, use it—it's tough to predict the perfect moment without multi-second exposures. With some care, practice, and probably a little editing, you can likely get something pleasing.
If you don't have manual shutter and ISO controls, things get really tricky. Some phones let you set your light meter on a specific part of the scene by touching it in the viewfinder—with the iPhone, you can touch and drag the focus box to separate metering and autofocus. Focus on something bright and, if you can, lock the exposure settings. Doing so prevents your phone from trying to brighten the dark sky around the fireworks.
Don't forget about video. Many phones record in 4K, which is enough resolution to pull out 8MP frames. You can also simply just share those video clips to social. Vertical video is fine if you're posting to Instagram Reels or TikTok, but don't forget to turn your phone sideways if you want to upload to YouTube or watch clips on your TV.
Finally, grab an image editing app, or take advantage of the one built into your phone. These let you add contrast and saturation to make your fireworks shots pop. If your phone supports Raw or HEIF capture, either will give you more leeway to edit than a JPG. For more, check out our guide on how to take better photos with your smartphone.
That's it for tips specific to smartphone owners. The rest of our advice is for the mirrorless and SLR crowd.
How to Photograph Fireworks With Your Camera
Cameras give you more creative flexibility when shooting most things, fireworks included. If you'd prefer to leave your smartphone in your pocket and put your camera to use come show time, here are some suggestions on what to do.
1. Pack a Tripod, Monopod, or Gimbal
It's easy to get sharp photos of fireworks without a tripod, but bringing one with you allows you to get a little more creative. They enable you, for instance, to use longer shutter speeds and position the camera at an angle that might be uncomfortable to hold. If you're worried about space or shooting at a venue where tripods are verboten, consider using a monopod, gimbal, or GorillaPod instead. You can usually pass a monopod off as a walking stick, and they're quite effective for long exposures, especially in combination with a stabilized camera. A gimbal is a bit more bulky, but makes it easier to mix in some video. And if you're not familiar with the GorillaPod, they are a line of compact camera supports with flexible legs that can wrap around trees and other objects to help steady your shots. If you don't have a tripod and don't know where to start your search, our buying guide can help.
If you have a newer ILC with a good, 5-axis in-body image stabilization system, you can experiment with handheld exposures. Cameras like the Sony a7 IV, OM System OM-1, and Canon EOS R6 Mark II can manage decent handheld exposures, sometimes up to a full second, but won't match the longer ones you can get with a tripod. Still, you can help out the IBIS system by bracing yourself or working from a seated position.
2. Turn Off Your Flash
Fireworks are very bright, and using your camera's flash won't do anything to help your shot. If you're using a camera with a built-in flash, you can typically turn it off via the menu (look for a lightning bolt button or symbol). Some ILCs let you control the flash simply by physically lowering or raising it. Most newer mirrorless cameras don't include a flash at all, so this is more of a concern if you're using an older SLR or point-and-shoot.
3. Set ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Manually
Here's where a tripod (or other form of stabilization) comes in handy. To get a nice exposure, you want to let just a little bit of light into the camera for a longer period than typical. This technique lets you capture the full effect of a firework burst in an image. Start with ISO 100 and set your lens to f/8 with a one-second shutter speed. Just know that you might need to make changes to account for whatever else is in the frame (such as lit buildings).
Shooting at ISO 200 at f/11 with a 1.6-second exposure netted the image at the top of this story, which preserves some shadows on the structure. But I also shot a few at f/8 with a 2-second exposure to give the structure a more saturated, painted look. You can stop the lens down even further for even longer exposures if you want to capture multiple bursts in one shot.
If your camera has a Bulb exposure mode (which keeps the shutter open as long as you hold the release down), you can use that to better time your shots. A shutter release cable or a wireless remote comes in handy for this mode, but if you don't have one or are using a compact camera, take care not to jostle it too much when you trip the shutter.
4. Find Your Spot and Frame Your Shot
Although the fireworks are the main attraction, you should try to get something else in the frame for next-level results. If you're in a city, for instance, try to position the skyline or a landmark toward the bottom of your photo with the fireworks above it. I captured some of the shots in this article at the SteelStacks complex in Bethlehem, PA. It was my first time attending that show and, in retrospect, I could have found a better spot had I known exactly where the display was going to appear in the sky, but the dramatic lighting of the abandoned steel mill went a long way to save my photos.
But not everyone is fortunate enough to have such a dramatic man-made structure in front of the light show. If you're in a more natural environment, try to find a lake or river that can show the reflections from above. Things can get a little tricky if you're out in a park or another rural area. Approach framing the fireworks as you would a landscape—if you can get a good balance of ground and sky (or perhaps show fellow spectators), those elements add intrigue.
Don't be afraid to change your frame as the show goes on—zooming in for some tight shots of the light show can make your series more interesting. But it might be tricky to get up and move, depending on the size of the crowd and location. Using a lightweight support system helps, but you also want to take care not to get in the way of others as you move through crowds. If you're stuck in place, swapping to a different lens can change your look. Telephotos can get tight, abstract views, and you could even break out a fish-eye or Lensbaby to change perspective.
5. Try New Things
Sure, the fireworks themselves are breathtaking, but you can try different techniques to keep things interesting. If you're shooting with a manual zoom lens, you can adjust the focal length during the exposure, which can result in some crazy light trails like in the shot below. You might also want to try breaking some of these rules; shooting a long exposure handheld can result in blurry, trippy results—I just wouldn't recommend doing it for the entirety of the show.
6. Don't Forget About Video
Most recent digital cameras can easily record fireworks displays. I still recommend using a tripod or gimbal if you're thinking about longer-form footage, but stabilized sensors and lenses are sufficient for shorter clips.
Be aware that recording video requires you to change your exposure settings. Manual mode is a must; keep the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO set to prevent the brightness from fluctuating. If you go for the cinematic 24fps look, use a 1/48-second or 1/50-second shutter speed. For 30fps, set the shutter to 1/60-second. Video experts should use a flat profile so there's room for editing contrast and color in post, but if that's alien language to you, turn to your camera's EV compensation setting to dial in the correct brightness for the scene if things don't look right on the monitor.
If you're thinking about shooting some fireworks this year but don't have a decent camera, take a look at our list of the best digital cameras. And, for more photo tips, check out our guides for beginners and experts.