This Italian “Third Step” Rule Is The Secret To Healthier Hair

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Long, shiny, healthy hair is a hallmark of Italian women—just look to the work of artist Sandro Botticelli’s, whose muses had iconic “Botticelli hair” as evidence that long, luxurious locks have always been a part of the culture.

Hair stylist Rossanno Ferretti, creator of the famous “invisible” haircut, grew up closely linked to this Italian hair care tradition. “Italian women are known for their meticulous and sophisticated approach to hair care," he tells Vogue. “They prioritize the health of their hair by embracing quality products and techniques that enhance the natural texture and shine—hair care is as ingrained as skincare and both are considered essential aspects of self-care.”

Ferretti also points to the recent skinification of hair and scalp as something Italian women have been practicing for years. “They [Italians] are aware of the importance of nourishing their hair beyond just using conditioner—adding a third step to their hair routine.” The third step is the addition of a serum or oil, which provides hair with essential nutrients; it should be applied to the mid-lengths and ends after every wash.

The traditional “third step” rule

The “third step” in Italian hair care routines is a practice passed down by mothers and grandmothers. This nostalgic habit goes back to the idea of learning how to take care of hair. “The culture of hair care is deeply rooted in family traditions. From an early age, children are taught the importance of proper hair care, often learning techniques and secrets passed down from generation to generation,” explains Ferretti, who insists that it is precisely this early education that encourages good hair habits that last a lifetime and goes beyond just washing your hair.

Nourishing is not the same as moisturizing your hair

It’s important to point out that nourishing your hair is not the same as moisturizing it. Moisturizing involves adding water, but if you want to repair damaged hair, look to nourish it with hair serums and oils. Damaged hair fibers are porous and this third step of a nourishing serum or oil also serves to create a protective layer for the hair and keep hair healthy.