9 Essential Things to Know Before Using Retinol and Retinoids

When it comes to defense against fine lines and maintaining a healthy glow, there’s no ingredient in skincare more lauded than retinol. The irony? Even though the revolutionary youth-enhancing active is a mainstay of drugstores, department store counters, and dermatologist offices alike, it still manages to mystify. And thus, it’s often underutilized or misused.

Here, experts break down how to carefully incorporate the powerhouse ingredient into your skincare routine to achieve a supernaturally fresh-faced complexion, now and for decades to come.

Our Top Retinol Product Picks

• Best Retinol for Mature Skin: Lancer Advanced Retinol Treatment, $95
• Best Retinol Cream: SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3, $78
• Best Retinol Serum: Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum, $122
• Best Drugstore: RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Cream, $25
• Best Retinol for Beginners: Glossier Universal Pro-Retinol, $35
• Best for Dark Spots: SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 1.0, $96
• Best Retinol Oil: 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil, $250

What is retinol?

To bring it back to the basics, retinol—alongside other retinoids, such as retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate—is essentially a derivative of vitamin A, which is one of the body’s key nutrients for boosting cell turnover. Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology explains the retinols must be converted to retinoic acid, which means it can take longer than those prescribed retinoids and can be a less irritating option for the skin that has many benefits.

The Benefits

Retinol is a powerhouse of an ingredient for a reason: it targets most of our top skin concerns. “It’s added to topical skincare products to promote skin renewal, brighten skin tone, reduce acne, and boost the collagen production,” explains New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD. “It also functions like an antioxidant to help address free radical damage, which leads to visible signs of aging.” The way board-certified dermatologist Francesca Fusco, MD, sees it, it’s the ingredient that does it all in dermatology, both cosmetically and medically. “I consider it a gold standard in skincare and often explain it to my patients as something that sweeps away dead skin cells, clogged pores, and dull skin,” she explains.

“Because it helps regulate skin cell turnover, it improves the appearance of both skin tone and skin texture,” adds Garshick. “By regulating skin cell turnover and encouraging new skin cells to come to the surface, it helps to resurface the skin and give an overall improved appearance to the skin tone and reduce the appearance of discoloration.”

Retinol, Retinoids, Etc.

So what’s the difference between retinol, retinoids, and all the other vitamin-A derivatives? As Angela Lamb, MD, board-certified dermatologist explains, retinoid is a “catch-all” term for all vitamin A-based products on the skin. The different types of retinoids are just different forms of vitamin A and can vary in strength and are used for different things. Isotretinoin (the most common type you’re probably familiar with is Accutane) is an oral retinoid medication that is used to treat acne. Tretinoin (or retinoic acid), Lamb says, is the most comm prescription retinoid on the market that can target both acne and signs of anti-aging. With retinol, it is an over-the-counter retinoid product that is not as irritating as the prescribed options and used to improve uneven skin tone, pigmentation, and texture. 

Begin in Your Mid-20s or Early 30s

Thirty has long been the banner year for introducing retinol into one’s routine, but many women are starting before then, motivated by early signs of aging, such as sun spots or crows feet, or simply eager to get a head start and utilize the latest technologies—under the careful watch of their dermatologist. “Your mid-twenties are a great time to start using retinol,” says Ellen Marmur, MD, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.  “Many patients who have used it for years swear by it.”

But the best time to start retinol really depends on your specific skincare concerns. For example, if you’re dealing with acne in your teens, Garshick says that it can be a good time to start looking into incorporating this ingredient into your routine. For preventive measures against fine lines and other signs of aging (such as fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, discoloration, etc.), you’ll want to start in your 20s and 30s. To treat those signs of aging skin when they actually occur, you should start in your 40s and 50s.

Integrate Retinol Slowly and Gently

“Balance is critical,” cautions Bowe. “Retinol can be very irritating if used too frequently or if the formulation is too strong for your skin.” She recommends starting off with a pea-sized amount of a low percentage over-the-counter formula (.01 percent to 0.03 percent), and using it “two times per week, slowly increasing the usage to give the skin a chance to acclimate.” Moreover, you should skip your retinol product on the day before you exfoliate (Bowe recommends exfoliating two to three times per week). “Exfoliating is abrasive and irritating, and you do not want to compound the skin irritation by heightening your skin’s sensitivity,” she says, adding that if you’re getting certain in-office treatments like lasers, microneedling, microdermabrasion, you will want to take a break from your retinol. In the spirit of not overdoing it, there’s a spate of new time-release formulas fit for skin types prone to redness or breakouts. “They’re a good option for people who have sensitive skin,” explains Fusco. “It releases the active ingredient over time and may offer less irritation.” In terms of prescription retinol versus something over the counter, the former is much more potent with a higher percentage of retinol, and one may graduate to it over time, says Bowe. Once your skin learns to tolerate such a strong ingredient, Garshick says you can work your way up to using retinol nightly.

Watch Out for Harsh Side Effects

There are certain side effects that come with using retinol that are considered normal as your skin will have to adjust to the active ingredient. Garshick says to expect some mild irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity when you’re first introducing the ingredient into your routine. But if you’re experiencing any intense flaking, redness, or burning sensations, it’s best to shy away from retinol altogether.

“While retinol is a great option and ingredient for many skincare concerns, there are situations when it may not be recommended such as someone with eczema, rosacea or sensitive skin,” she says. But don’t stress about how you’re going to smooth those fine lines if you happen to fall into any of those categories; there are plenty of options for you.

“If you cannot tolerate retinol, don’t worry,” says Marmur. “It’s not the only anti-ager. There are plenty of amazing anti-aging ingredients, such as wild indigo, that work beautifully without any irritation or sun sensitivity.”

Garshick adds that those with sensitive skin or those who prefer a natural alternative can turn to an ingredient like bakuchiol to give the similar benefits to retinol. She recommends something like the TruSkin Longevity Serum and Andalou Naturals Age Defying Plant-Based Retinol Alternative Rejuvenating Cream. “Regardless of cost, it is always important to select a retinol that is good for your skin type,” she says. “There are great retinol options [and alternatives] for all skin types over the counter.”

Use Retinol Only at Night and Wear SPF Every Day

All experts agree that one of the most important steps to using retinol is following it up with daily sunscreen use. “Although retinoids are not phototoxic, meaning they won’t react with sunlight to cause a burn on the skin the way lime juice can, many of them do break down when exposed to UV rays,” explains Bowe. “So applying your retinoid in the morning might render it less effective, and a high-quality retinoid can be quite pricey. That’s why I recommend using your retinol, or your retinal (my personal favorite retinoid, which is 10x more bioavailable than retinol) at night.” For proper sun safety, Bowe recommends being diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day. Moreover, with retinol use, one should always be conscious of the weather forecast and trips to hot locales. “It should not be used during seasons or vacations when individuals will be spending extended time in direct sunlight,” warns Fusco.

Remember to Moisturize

Because retinol can be drying, you’ll want to make sure either use products that have moisturizing ingredients mixed in the formulations or use a moisturizer for added hydration. She recommends something like First Aid Beauty Retinol Eye Cream with Squalane + Ceramides that has retinol to smooth fine lines around the eye area and uses squalane and ceramides to nourish and soothe any irritation. Her pro-tip with any retinol application: apply moisturizer first before retinol.

Don’t Stop at Your Face

When applying a retinol-infused elixir, don’t neglect your neck or décolletage, which are areas notorious for showing the signs of aging, yet often overlooked. “If those zones seem too sensitive for your current formula, add a squirt of ceramide-enriched moisturizer before smoothing it on, or pick up a separate retinoid made specifically for the area in question,” says Bowe. “They typically contain a lower dose of vitamin A, zero fragrance, and loads of soothers.”