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Lately, there’s been a lot of discussion, both online and around the Vogue office, about the return of Indie Sleaze—the grungy, messy, and kind of sexy style of the late 2000s and early 2010s. Some of our colleagues scoff at the idea of such a recent trend making its return, while others are ready to break out their chokers and knee socks.
Vogue fashion writers Christian Allaire and Hannah Jackson got together to debate the so-called return and its longevity.
Hannah Jackson: Thank you for joining me here in this Google Doc, Christian. As we both know, there’s been a lot of chatter about the so-called return of Indie Sleaze, both around the office and online. Before we get into it, I’d love to know what the original Indie Sleaze Era was like for you.
Christian Allaire: Well, you’re younger than I am, Hannah, but I was in college during the height of Indie Sleaze. I was very much in it. I was inspired by what stars like Sky Ferreira, Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, and Pete Doherty were wearing. It was all about skinny jeans (suffocatingly tight) paired with leather jackets and striped shirts and vests—maybe even a little cheesy fedora, too. Smudged eyeliner; messy hair—an edgy, perfectly-imperfect vibe. I think of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent. Loads of flannels or bomber jackets, or saucy little polka dot dresses with tights. What’s been your relationship to the trend?
HJ: Luckily, I experienced the last few years of the trend while I was in high school. It was all about American Apparel tennis skirts, Arctic Monkeys’s AM, and teaching yourself HTML and CSS so you could customize your Tumblr. Sky Ferreira and Charlotte Free made me want to bleach my hair into oblivion, just so I could dye it pink, and Alex Turner’s famous love letter to Alexa Chung opened my eyes to ~romance~.
CA: I’m so with you on the bleached hair front. I went platinum around that time.
HJ: I think anyone who broke out the bleach during that time is entitled to financial compensation. As previously mentioned, Indie Sleaze seems to be having a bit of a moment, even though it hasn’t really been that long since it died in the first place. This is definitely a factor that I think some of our more seasoned colleagues scoff at—the idea of a “comeback.” What do you make of all this?
CA: I definitely think it’s a little soon for a revival. But then again, time now moves faster than ever (thanks technology!), so it makes sense that trends are coming back sooner. For me, my biggest qualm with Indie Sleaze in 2024 is…the lack of sleaze. Back in the early 2010s, it really felt authentic, because stars didn’t have stylists or full-on glam teams in the same way that they do today; They really were just slapping things together and hoping it worked. There was a sloppiness to the look that I found charming. It’s hard to imagine how this will look today, when a curated image is everything.
HJ: That’s a great point. It’s impossible not to notice how polished everything is these days—stylists are even curating outfits for errands, just on the off chance a client gets papped. I will say though, I do think there are a handful of people these days who have that carnal kind of messiness, that DGAF attitude, that could really pull off a revival. Addison Rae seems to embody it, as does Charli XCX, Troye Sivan, The Dare, and I’m especially convinced by Alex Consani. Even people like Reneé Rapp, who’s really opened up a new dialogue about the effectiveness of media training, seems to be pointing in a direction of, well, mess that we’ve been missing. What do you make of these new wavers, and is there anyone else you think could usher in a true revival?
CA: It’s definitely become more of an attitude than a specific aesthetic, per se. Like, I think Olivia Rodrigo captures the vibe of indie sleaze—but her fashions are way more sophisticated than the ones we got back in the 2010s. For me, I’m actually more drawn to people like Kate Moss—stars who ignited the trend in the first place, and are still carrying the look on. I saw Moss at the Saint Laurent show this week in a big faux fur coat and sheer tights and I thought, “Oh, we are so back.” I guess my question for you is: How do we think the trend will evolve from here, and how long will it last?
HJ: I know, I feel like there have been multiple instances this week where I’ve been like, “Where is Sky Ferreira when we need her the most?” I agree, I’d be keen to hear from the people who did it first. I feel like a lot of them have maintained that style but evolved as they’ve gotten older. We can’t be going to sets at The Smell forever, after all. I don’t think we’ve hit a peak quite yet. This revival of sorts does seem reactionary to this overly-processed, sanitized celebrity culture, and I think that there are still some boundaries left to push. (Maybe the ongoing sheer trend is part of this?) Last week Charli XCX played a set at the Boiler Room in Bushwick, and I think the fact that there were 25,000 RSVPs within a few hours does go to show that people still want to get sleazy. I wonder how her upcoming album release will impact the trajectory.
CA: Ugh, I wanted to go to that Boiler Room set so bad. It’s true, though, I do think it’s a reaction to “stealth wealth” and all of that. If anything, I’m here for the trend inspiring people to bring back some more eclectic pieces into the wardrobe. That was the best part about indie sleaze—pairing a vintage coin belt with bright red skinnys and, like, white Ray Ban Wayfarers. I feel like the key to all these revivals—indie! Y2K! Western!—is finding an element that you like about it and running with it. You don’t need to totally succumb yourself to the idea and dress like a hard-partying rocker. But you can, maybe, have a little fun with dressing again. I low-key want to dust off my Alexander McQueen skull scarf now.
HJ: It seems like it may be too soon to tell where all this goes. But in the meantime, I’m feeling some serious regret over getting rid of my American Apparel tennis skirts. But maybe this time around I’ll buy the Balenciaga Ceinture boots.
CA: Those boots are my roman empire. I think another fun element of this trend is the idea of diving onto eBay or The RealReal and trying to find some of the hottest pieces of the era. I’ve been eyeing some Lucien Pellat-Finet skull sweaters again. It’s kind of an exciting (and nostalgic) challenge to bring them back into a 2024 outfit.
HJ: Oh, you’d best believe I have those boots bookmarked. One of the nice things about reliving high school—from a fashion POV only—is that I can revisit pieces I loved but could never afford with my babysitting money.
CA: Maybe that’s what indie sleaze is all about. Getting a redo with more money and better taste!
HJ: Cheers to that. Everyone raise a Four Loko!
