With a diverse population and a low-key, welcoming vibe, it’s no wonder Canada’s most populous city is rumoured to be the new home of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex. Keen to make a visit? Paris-based Toronto native Monica de La Villardière gives Vogue the low-down on Toronto.
When I first left my native Toronto over a decade ago to study at a British university, I had to show my new friends in halls where Toronto was on a map. No longer. Now my most with-it pals in London and Paris are queueing for an invite to stay at my mom’s place. What happened?
Well, first there was the speedy gentrification of a whole host of downtown neighbourhoods. Modern-day Toronto brims with enclaves of liberal hipster heaven, like Trinity Bellwoods, Ossington, or Parkdale further west, all the while retaining its low-key, welcoming, Canadian vibe.
But quality of life is also a major draw. Toronto is geographically vast, yet it boasts an unusual blend of foliate, walkable residential neighbourhoods, park space and urban density. The city is also uniquely multicultural, with over half of Toronto’s current population having been born aboard, making for one of the world’s most vibrant food scenes. Despite the cold winters, it's no surprise Toronto is so appealing to Trump-dodgers. And of course, there’s a certain Duke and Duchess reportedly making it their home this year. With that in mind, here’s a guide to the coolest hang-outs Toronto has to offer.
1/7The Must-Snap Juice Bar: Greenhouse
After a long flight to Toronto, a great way to get acclimatised is with a visit to Greenhouse, home of the city’s hippest and tastiest organic plant-based beverages, from Meghan Markle’s favourite smoothie (and mine) the decadent-yet-nutritious Rococoa, to immunity-boosting cold-pressed juices, probiotic lemonades, and boosters in minimalist glass bottles. The brand has won a number of design awards since launching in 2014 and each of its Toronto stores has a unique aesthetic. Visit the original boutique on Macpherson Avenue, a Hansel and Gretel cottage that inspired the company’s name and logo, or the newest location in Toronto’s new Beaux-Arts downtown hub Union Station, which is currently undergoing a major, multi-year renovation. Greenhouse Union Station is inspired by turn-of-the-century suitcases and antique train cars (think: Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited) complete with a mirrored ceiling, bright green tiles, brass shelving and panelled walls. A destination for Instagram and cold-pressed juice addicts alike.
2/7The Hotel: Annex
The newly opened Annex Hotel takes its name from the surrounding midtown neighbourhood. Set amongst typically Torontonian Victorian homes, this slickly designed boutique hotel has 24 rooms filled with natural light, local art, and record players with a selection of vinyls from Bruce Springsteen to Taylor Swift. The lobby is an avocado-toast-serving cafe by day, and a foodie-friendly wine bar by night. Check yourself in online, unlock your door with a secret code and text the staff with any requests. Who makes phone calls anymore, anyway?
3/7The Restaurant: Dreyfus
In a townhouse near the University of Toronto, you’ll find the city’s new favourite French restaurant – “Montreal French”, that is. Dreyfus’s founder Zach Kolomeir cut his teeth at the Quebecois city’s famous Joe Beef, where he worked his way up from busboy to chef. Named in reference to the anti-Semitic Dreyfus affair that scandalised Paris at the turn of the 20th century, this dinner-only spot brings seasonal French cuisine to Toronto, once seen as inferior to its Francophone counterpart Montreal in the food department, and underlines the importance of Jewish cultural influence on Montreal-French cuisine.
4/7Four Must-Visit Boutiques
Posh midtown neighbourhoods Yorkville and Rosedale are home to many of Toronto’s best fashion boutiques. I remember dreaming of the jeans at TNT in Hazelton Lanes as a teenager, and my feelings on the matter have not changed. But an array of Rosedale multi-brand boutiques have also become mainstays in recent years, including Narwhal, where you’ll find a well-edited mix of international brands and local designers like Jenny Bird and Fortnight Lingerie, Clementine’s, a concept shop blending home decor and ready-to-wear pieces curated by a welcoming mother-daughter duo, and WANT Apothecary, which is not only the exclusive Toronto retailer of French footwear brand Michel Vivien, but also boasts its own line of elegant travel goods.
@vspconsignment5/7The Vintage Destination: VSP Consignment
The founder of Toronto’s coolest vintage and resale store is well-versed in the art of second-hand fashion: her mother runs the 1000 square-foot vintage institution Vespucci Consignment in Calgary. At VSP, rare finds from Marni, Dries van Noten and “Old Celine” and even rarer deals are not uncommon, with prices at around one third of their original value. Pieces are grouped according to theme, easing the experience for the newly converted and inspiring even the most seasoned vintage devotees.
6/7The Hidden Culinary Gem: Mamakas Taverna
This stylish Greek gem on the trendy Ossington strip offers a modern approach to Aegean food and a warm atmosphere. Its whitewashed walls, Greek blue window signage and brown wooden stools make you feel like you might have wandered into a hidden taverna in Santorini – minus the overload of tourists – but the population here is strictly Toronto trendies. Can’t get a reservation? Try new sister restaurant Agora on nearby Queen St. W. for a more casual alternative and takeaway options.
7/7Three Rooftop Watering Holes
When it comes to cocktail hour, the city’s hotel rooftop bars are a destination. The Drake Hotel, a downtown Toronto institution, is still a favourite stop for night owls searching for a fun evening. Visit the rooftop in warmer months or head down to the Drake’s storied nightclub for live acts and a boogie. Meanwhile, the Broadview Hotel, whose 1891 historic landmark structure once housed a strip club, is now known for its stylish renovation and spectacular views. And, for celebrity-spotters (particularly during the Toronto International Film Festival, in September) there's the swanky Bisha Hotel pool bar. Yes, contrary to popular belief, Toronto does get hot and humid in the summer. The Bisha bar provides a guaranteed scene overlooking the steamy city.