The Downton Abbey: A New Era Costumes Are Inspired By Silent Film Actors & Chanel’s Holiday Wardrobe
One of the joys of watching Downton Abbey has always been its meticulous approach to sartorial history, and the latest film, whose costumes were overseen by Anna Robbins, is no exception. In cinemas from 29 April, Downton Abbey: A New Era takes place in 1928, a revolutionary moment for post-war fashion. “The new school has used all the practicability of the uniform-fashion days and does not in any sense emulate the ornamental and unwearable modes of the pre-uniform period,” British Vogue announced in its “Vogue’s Eye View Of The Mode” section in the May 1928 issue. “But, there is no longer a taboo on novelty and originality, on variety and individuality in fashion.” Ahead of the Crawleys return to screens, Robbins takes Vogue through the looks to keep an eye out for in A New Era.
Ben Blackall1/5“Downton Abbey: A New Era is set a year on from the original film, so in terms of the style, we’re really looking more towards the ’30s, trend-wise. After disappearing in the ’20s, waists have returned for the Upstairs characters. Some of Mary’s dresses are worn with waspie-style corsets as well as belts. I’ve also woven in a lot of nods to her connection with the Dowager in this film; their ballgowns mirrored each other at the end of the last movie, and here Mary wears some of Violet’s jewellery.”
Ben Blackall2/5“A significant part of A New Era is set on the Riviera, and I studied a lot of photographs of Chanel in the South of France while designing the Crawleys’ slightly more relaxed holiday wardrobes. Edith, in particular, embraces some of the more daring styles that were becoming popular [a natural choice given her relationship with the Bloomsbury set and the more bohemian circles in London at that point]; I found these beautiful cream-and-green trousers that she wears with a kimono and matching slippers. Viewers will also notice silk pyjamas worn as eveningwear for the first time – quite a big leap sartorially.”
Ben Blackall3/5“When it came to designing Lucy’s wedding dress, I found a photograph in a ’20s copy of Vogue that I nearly exactly recreated; it’s streamlined through the hips and then layer upon layer of gathered silk tulle flows out around her. She’s more down to earth than the other characters who have been married at Downton Abbey, so it felt important that she would be able to lift up her skirts and dance at the reception. Her veil, though, is more elaborate than any of the others. I sourced it through Jane Bourvis, and she wears it with a Bentley & Skinner tiara studded with diamonds and pearls.”
Ben Blackall4/5“Sportswear exploded in the ’30s, and that’s definitely evident in A New Era. You see Edith and Bertie, Lucy and Tom playing doubles together, and I found original pieces in a rich cream shade for the girls to wear for the match – contrasting beautifully with the green of the villa lawn. Lucy accessorises hers with sunglasses and a headscarf, while Edith has these tiny ankle socks and prim leather heels. You also get to witness the first Downton Abbey character wearing a bathing suit: Tom goes swimming in the Med with Lucy in an all-in-one.”
Ben Blackall5/5“The Hollywood stars who turn up in Yorkshire to shoot a movie offer a pretty dramatic contrast to the Crawleys in terms of clothes. Myrna is inspired by the likes of Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, but I also looked at Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson and Lillian Gish’s wardrobes when sourcing pieces for her. That means she wears a lot of sumptuous, expensive designs – fur stoles and Art-Deco jewellery. When she arrives at Downton Abbey, the camera pans her up and down, and you get to see these brilliant original shoes that I managed to find for her and have restored.”