The Ski Season Almost Never Ends at This California Resort

On a crisp December day (by Los Angeles standards), I traveled five-and-a-half hours north to Mammoth Lakes in search of even colder weather and a taste of some of the snowiest conditions in the U.S. It was there that I met Gabe Taylor, a professional snowboarder turned Mammoth marketing manager, for a little tour of his own personal paradise.

"I went to school in Colorado and sat next to a kid who was talking about snowboarding, and I didn't know anything about snowboarding," said Taylor, who looks and sounds like the quintessential kind-hearted snowboard dude. He explained how he took up the sport for the very first time at the age of 18. "It sounded fun. He dragged me up the mountain the next day and it changed my life."

Just a few years later, Taylor turned pro, becoming somewhat of an elder statesman in a sport that typically sees kids begin at three years old and turn pro by 12. When he drove out to Mammoth with his buddy for some spring boarding and saw the mountain looming in the distance, he had one gut reaction: "What is that?!"

"Mammoth looks so ominous and big over this mountain range. I asked my buddy, 'There's a lift that goes to the top of that?' and he said, 'Yeah, straight to the top.'"

Once he hit the slopes, he was hooked and gained sponsorships that took him all over the world as a backcountry expert willing to jump over, under, or in between just about any obstacle a mountain could throw his way. But he kept coming back to Mammoth over and over again. "Everywhere I went I realized there's nothing like Mammoth," he said. "Getting older, being a part of this community, and having a family here is so special."

During our morning session, Taylor took me around to a few of his favorite spots, including Chair 14, located on the backside of the mountain, which was nearly abandoned despite it being a rather busy day on the slopes. It's clear why Taylor loves that particular old-school two-seater lift so much. Not only were there no crowds, but it also came with a view of his favorite spot on the mountain: Hemlocks.

When Taylor came on full-time as a Mammoth staffer, he made it his mission to update the mountain's terrain parks to include more natural elements that riders and skiers could enjoy. However, there is one catch to the backcountry paradise, and it's that you have to hike up a quarter-mile trail from Chair 14 to find it. But, that's OK with Taylor, as it keeps the crowds at bay.

When asked to share his favorite on-mountain trails, Taylor laughed and said, "Is it cheesy to say whichever one I'm on?" However, he relented and finally named Climax, a double-black diamond located on the frontside at the very summit of the mountain, as the true treasure of the slopes. But don't get intimidated by trails like Climax; despite being an absolute behemoth of a mountain with more than 3,500 acres of skiable terrain, Mammoth comes with plenty of trails for beginners and intermediates and somehow still feels like a down-home place where everybody knows your name.

Though you may not be lucky enough to get a lesson with Taylor, Mammoth does have plenty of stellar instructors ready to teach young guns and old dogs new tricks on the mountain any day. Even if you're an experienced skier or boarder, Taylor advises taking an advanced lesson with an instructor who can double as your personal mountain guide.

As for summing up the spirit of Mammoth Mountain, Taylor had a bit of trouble putting it into words. Finally, he said, "It's intangible. It's just so special." Here's everything you need to know about skiing and snowboarding at Mammoth.

When to Go

Mammoth Mountain usually opens up for skiing and snowboarding between late October and mid-November and stays open until summer — sometimes as late as August. It's often one of the last ski areas in the U.S. to close. And since it boasts an average of 300 sunny days a year, you're likely to have blue skies whenever you go.

With such a long season, it can be tough to pinpoint the best time for your trip. Mammoth Lakes' official tourism website lists a number of reasons why you should go in the spring — specifically late March through the end of the season: "the winter crowds dwindle, conditions remain incredible, days become longer and warmer, and off-season pricing for lodging and skiing takes effect."

If you'd prefer to soak up the excitement of buzzing slopes, then go between Christmas and New Year's or on any holiday weekend, really. These peak times can get extremely busy, but there's no more festive place to celebrate.

Where to Stay

The Village Lodge

The Village Lodge is the only hotel in The Village, so its guests get the best access to shopping and dining in Mammoth Mountain's buzzing epicenter. Offering studios and one- to three-bedroom condos right at the base of the mountain, this upscale lodge has its own gondola that takes visitors up the slopes.

Juniper Springs Resort

Juniper Springs Resort has 180 individually owned units ranging from studios to one-bedroom condominiums to three-bedroom townhouses. Guests get to enjoy two heated swimming pools and six hot tubs open year-round, plus all the amenities of the Eagle Lodge next door. The resort also offers ski-in, ski-out access and its own ski school.

The Westin Monache Resort

Marriott's all-suite Westin Monache Resort is right outside The Village, with quick access to The Village Gondola. Things that make this property special include the welcome drink upon arrival, a heated pool with epic mountain views, gas fireplaces, and the chance to book an in-room massage in between runs.

Where to Eat

Vulcania

In Mammoth Village, Vulcania is a rustic Italian restaurant serving delicious pasta dishes and wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas created by Bryan and Michael Voltaggio of Food Network's Battle of the Brothers. It also has an extensive wine and cocktail list. The Wild Turkey-spiked espresso might be just the drink you need after some time on the slopes.

Mountainside Bar & Grill

Mountainside Bar & Grill is a relaxed breakfast- and dinner-only restaurant located inside the Mammoth Mountain Inn in The Village. It's the perfect place to stop for a hearty omelet or eggs Benedict before catching the lift, or to refuel with a burger and a beer later in the day.

Gojira Ramen & Sushi

If you're craving Japanese, Gojira Ramen & Sushi could be the perfect place to warm up with a hot bowl of noodles. It's convenient for people staying in the town of Mammoth Lakes, though less so for those sticking around The Village.

Where to Après-ski

Shelter Distilling

Shelter Distilling, in Mammoth Village, is an ideal spot for a quick post-slopes drink. Try one of the house-made whiskies, neat or in a good old-fashioned hot toddy. The distillery uses Sierra Nevada snowmelt and blue corn harvested in the area to make its progressive spirits.

LakaNuki

A ski resort is possibly the last place you'd expect to find a tiki bar, but LakaNuki is the spot to be if you're looking for a Hawaiian-themed après party. If you're there with a group, go for one of its Nui bowls, but be warned: the planter's punch will hit you hard and fast.

Yodler Restaurant & Bar

If you're ready for après before 5 p.m. (closing time), Yodler can offer you chalet vibes and local draft beers slopeside. This German gem serves giant Bavarian pretzels, brats, and schnitzel (including vegetarian schnitzel) that pair perfectly with a lager.

Off-mountain Activities

Soak in natural hot springs.

Thanks to a volcano that erupted hundreds of thousands of years ago, Mammoth Lakes is a hot spring enthusiast's dream. Surrounded by snowy peaks, these are some of the most scenic springs you'll find anywhere, and many are still on public land (i.e., they're free). There are several along Benton Crossing Road about 20 minutes outside of town.

Hike around Convict Lake.

Convict Lake is a beautiful spot with turquoise waters that reflect the stunning peaks surrounding it. The two-mile hiking trail that loops around the lake, hugging the shore all the way, is worth doing any time of year. The trailhead is a 15-minute drive from town.

Go ice skating.

LA Kings Ice at Mammoth Lakes, an Olympic-size indoor ice skating rink, holds public skate sessions almost daily all winter. Keep an eye on the calendar for free public skate times, when admission and equipment rental are complimentary.

How to Ride

Tickets

Mammoth Mountain lift tickets start at around $89 for an adult single-day pass. That will get you access to the beginner-friendly parts of the mountain (Chairs 7, 11, 15, and 17), not the whole mountain. For full access, you'll probably pay between $150 and $250 for a single-day ticket, depending on the date. You can save by booking early or picking up an afternoon-only ticket, which is discounted by 35 percent.

The Ikon Pass is valid at Mammoth, too, and friends and family of passholders get up to 35 percent off tickets. The resort runs deals throughout the season: for example, if you book a two-day ticket before the end of February, you can get a third day free.

Rentals

Mammoth Mountain has seven rental locations, each offering standard to top-of-the-line demo gear. There are also a number of places that rent out ski and snowboard gear off the mountain. But with third-party renters you don't get advantages like speedy adjustments and swaps, pickup and drop-off locations all around The Village, and overnight storage so you don't have to lug your gear to your hotel and back.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Mammoth Mountain has more than 3,500 acres of skiable terrain, 25 lifts, 175 trails, and a whopping 10 terrain parks with plenty of jibs and jumps to play on. The resort is brimming with expert runs, with 60 percent of the terrain rated difficult to extremely difficult. Green runs make up 13 percent and blue 27 percent. Both sides of the mountain are skiable, with the backside mostly expert-rated and the beginner-friendly terrain on the front.

Programming

The Mammoth Ski & Snowboard School operates out of the resort's three base lodges: Main, Canyon, and Eagle. Group and private lessons are available for the beginner and advanced skier or snowboarder alike. The program offers season-long clinics, kids' lessons that double as child care, and adaptive programs.

Locals who frequent Mammoth Mountain might be interested in joining one of the ski or snowboard teams (pick from Nordic or alpine skiing, freeskiing, and snowboarding). Athletes come from all over to train here, too, with expert-level camps and programs always running.