It was our pleasure over the last 10 days to accommodate a family of five from the UK on their first trip to Southeast Asia. As it was their introduction to this beautiful part of the world, we took particular care to craft an itinerary for them that would cover a mix of the well-known highlights that fill history and guide books as well as hidden gems to illuminate the intimate, yet increasingly cosmopolitan, style of modern life.
Starting in Vietnam, their travels took them from Hanoi in the north to the metropolis of Saigon in the south before enjoying a short flight over to Siem Reap to glimpse the splendour of ancient Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The temple complex is famously a wonder to the senses: its noble old stones inspire the imagination; blemished by the cycles of the rain and the sun that has warmed them every day for nearly a millennium, its intricate bas-reliefs peer at passers-by, illustrating stories and beliefs that feel ever fainter to the modern mind.
But even that which was forgotten can be learned again and our adventurous family were just such curious spirits. Our guide, Mr. Tan, a Khmer scholar who has advised the museums of Phnom Penh, told us about their expedition through the temple and the many different questions our visitors asked him about the meaning of the carvings. As he explained to them, the temple had been built to venerate Vishnu, the god of preservation who bridges creation (Brahma) and destruction (Shiva) and was built to represent the cosmology of Hindu belief which places Mount Mehru at the centre of the world (axis mundi). The temple is a figurative, yet concrete, depiction of the world as Hinduism sees it.
Now, our curious family pressed Mr. Tan with an astute question: how did the temple fare during the rise of Buddhism as the dominant belief system of the Khmer Empire and modern Cambodia. In some ways, this is one of the most important cruxes of Indochinese cultures, which have existed culturally, religiously, and politically between the two very large and influential cultures of India and China.
In truth, our guide explained, the transition to Buddhism was not, as in some monotheistic cultures, one of “this or that”. Instead, Buddhist beliefs that were first championed in earnest by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218), were preached within the Hindu temple and gradually created a syncretic belief system that is still present in Cambodia to this day. The cycle of life and death, reincarnation and gradual tendency toward the divine, are central to both religions, though they are expressed in different manners and have given the world very different cultures.
Angkor Wat, Mr. Tan explained, and the larger culture of Cambodia have been home to both beliefs however, and succeeded in melding the two in a fashion that makes Cambodia a truly unique destination. Well, our guests wanted to know more and it was our pleasure to oblige so we made a detour through some of the more intricate carvings at the temple to get a better understanding of the fundamental beliefs of Hinduism and Buddhism, learn where they meet and where they diverge, and enrich our guest’s understanding of this wonderful place and people.
It is our sincerest delight to reveal the magical experiences our destinations have to offer and we hope to see our intrepid guests again on this side of the world soon.
Inspired to start planning your customised journey to Southeast Asia? Share your ideas with us at hello@trailsofindochina.com or submit a request below.
