Imagine the scene. You’re 35,000ft in the air and as you look out of the window to see the clouds falling away, you hear the first promising rattle of the trolley as the in-flight service begins. What should we drink? I recently flew back from San Francisco on a British Airways A380 and, armed with a spittoon and notebook, tasted the wines in each class.
A pressurised cabin isn’t the greatest place for tasting wine: our sense of smell is seriously affected, while the dryness of the air accentuates the bitter-tasting tannin compound found in red wine. The trick is to look for fruity wine with bold, expressive and ripe flavours. Sémillon can work well for whites, malbec for reds — and in first class you are more than likely to find a red bordeaux. Champagne should have plenty of upfront, fruity character and a generous, yeasty mouth-feel. The natural sweetness of port is also an option, but if you manage to get that far, remember to drink huge quantities of water too.
CHAMPAGNE CASTELNAU BRUT RESERVE NV
The Wine Society, £28
France
If you’re flying on British Airways and lucky enough to be handed a glass of champagne before take-off it will probably be this. A first sip reveals plenty of fruity notes and lively acidity, but there is enough yeasty flavour to withstand the pressurised cabin.
2015 MOUNT HORROCKS WATERVALE SEMILLON
Wine direct, £17
Australia
Made by the winemaker Stephanie Toole on an estate that is 100% organic, this golden-coloured wine could perform well at altitude. It enjoys a full-bodied, rich texture and has primary notes of vanilla, oak and mature fruit such as ripe apple.
Advertisement
2016 PASSIMENTO BIANCO PASQUA
Majestic, £12
Italy
This white from the Veneto region is produced from garganega grapes, which are partly dried before fermentation. This process gives the wine intense flavours of tropical fruit, dried apricots and a creamy, mouth-coating, honeyed character. Gets the taste buds flowing, however high you fly.
2015 TRIVENTO PRIVATE RESERVE MALBEC
Tesco, £10
Argentina
Malbec is one of the few grape varieties grown at high altitude, at around 3,000ft. The strong, primary fruit flavours have enough power to taste good at 35,000ft. This elegant example is deep violet with concentrated notes of red fruit and a smooth finish.
2011 CHATEAU LANESSAN LES CALECHES DE LANESSAN, HAUT MEDOC
Woodwinters, £18
France
If you find yourself in a first-class cabin, you will probably be served a red bordeaux. Lanessan is a great example: a predominantly cabernet sauvignon blend. It pleases with notes of blackcurrant, cedar and tobacco.
1999 KOPKE COLHEITA TAWNY PORT
Waitrose, £33
Portugal
Often served in business class, to which its spicy, fresh finish is well suited, tawny port is a real treat. So while this bottle may break the bank, the good news is, once you are back on terra firma, you can leave it on the sideboard and have a nip at the end of the week or when you come in from work.
