They’ve been making lasagne in Italy since the Middle Ages. Apparently the first recipe from the early 14th century describes a dish of flattened dough sprinkled with cheese and spices, and eaten with a small pointed stick. I don’t know about you, but I prefer a fork these days. The dish varies by region but it’s the lasagne al forno from Emilia-Romagna, layered with ragu and béchamel sauce, that has made it an international bestseller. Authentically it should be made with beef and pork but in their wisdom most supermarkets leave out the pork element or substitute with bacon. I can’t say I’m fussed either way, but I do insist on even layers of pasta, ragu and béchamel, something that was beyond most of the examples here.
Tony’s pick
Pasta Evangelists Beef Shin Ragu Lasagne
★★★★★
350g, Ocado, £7
Pricey but the slow-cooked shin sets it apart. There’s depth of flavour and a hint of nutmeg in the béchamel
Cook Lasagne al Forno
★★★★☆
Budgens, 740g, £9.50
Can’t fault the flavour, with everything in the right ratios. The cheddar topping is as inauthentic as it is delicious
Our Best Ever Beef Lasagne
★★★★☆
M&S, 800g, £9.50
Rich, cheesy and filling: the pick of supermarket own labels, which you could happily pass off as homemade
Bistro Lasagne al Forno
★★★☆☆
Asda, 400g, £3.50
Tasty ragu, but so little béchamel it’s more pasta and sauce than lasagne. Great value, though
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Charlie Bigham’s Lasagne
★★☆☆☆
Main supermarkets, 690g, £9.50
Underseasoned, mean with the beef and the pasta layers are too dense. The hit of dried herbs put us off too
Tesco Finest Lasagne
★☆☆☆☆
400g, £4.25
Bland, pellety ragu and gloopy white sauce. Can’t believe an Italian nonna was consulted
