When barbecuing fish, bear in mind that the flesh will continue to cook for a few minutes after it is removed from the grill. Beware of overcooking: overcooked fish is as disappointing as moist, perfectly cooked fish is delicious.
Ask your fishmonger to scale and gut your fish and trim the fins so it’s ready to throw on the fire when you get home.
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THAI-STYLE RED SNAPPER
This fish is great cooked over the coals: its flesh is firm, meaty and sweet, and it stands up brilliantly to strong flavourings.
Serves 6
For the fish
6x500g red snapper
For the marinade
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 stems lemon grass, finely sliced at an angle
6 lime leaves, finely shredded
2-3 large red chillies, finely sliced at an angle
1 thumb ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp palm sugar or soft brown sugar
6 tbsp chopped coriander
2 tbsp fish sauce (nam pla)
2 tbsp vegetable oil, for brushing
To serve
3 limes, halved
Using a sharp knife, score the snapper on the diagonal four times on each side, about 5mm into the flesh.
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add the lemon grass, lime leaves, chillies and ginger and cook gently for 2 minutes to soften. Mix in the sugar and allow to cool. Add the coriander and fish sauce. Rub this marinade over the fish, into the cuts and inside the cavity. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
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Brush the oil all over the surface of the fish. Season well on both sides with salt. Preheat a hinged sandwich rack or barbecue grill to sizzle temperature (you should be able to hold your hand over smoke-free, glowing charcoal for 3-4 seconds). Clean and lightly oil the rack. Place the fish on the heat and cook for 5-7 minutes on the first side. If using a sandwich rack, turn and continue to grill for a further 5-7 minutes on the other side, or until the skin is crisp and the flesh just cooked through. To check if the fish is cooked, insert a small, sharp knife into the fleshiest part.
If cooking on the barbecue grill, do not move the fish until it is crisp. Use a fish slice to gently turn it over. Grill for a further 5-7 minutes or until cooked through. Serve with sliced limes.
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LEMON AND HERB MACKEREL
Barbecued mackerel is best served simply.
Serves 6
For the fish
6x450g mackerel
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To grill and serve
Vegetable oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons, each cut into 6 wedges
Fresh herbs such as parsley, tarragon, chervil, sweet cicely, chives, dill, fennel
Score the fish three times on each side about 5mm into the flesh, then brush lightly with vegetable oil. Season well.
Preheat the barbecue to sizzle temperature (you should be able to hold your hand over smoke-free, glowing charcoal for 3-4 seconds). Clean and lightly oil the rack. Place the fish on the heat and cook for 5-7 minutes on the first side. If using a sandwich rack, turn and continue to grill for a further 5-7 minutes on the other side or until the skin is crisp and the flesh just cooked through. To check if the fish is cooked, insert a small, sharp knife into the fleshiest part.
If cooking on the barbecue, do not try to move the fish until it is crisp, otherwise it will stick. Grill for a further 5-7 minutes or until it is cooked through. To serve, scatter the barbecued fish with herb leaves. Serve with lemon wedges and stacks of buttered brown bread.
TERIYAKI PRAWN WRAPS WITH WASABI MAYO
A delicious crunch with clean oriental flavours and a kick of wasabi.
Makes 6 snacks
For the fish
30 raw peeled tiger prawns, de-veined
4x30cm metal skewers
For the marinade
3 tbsp teriyaki sauce
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tsp soft brown sugar
1 thumb ginger, finely chopped
For grilling
Juice of one lime
For the wrap
1 tbsp sesame seeds
175g carrots, in matchsticks
½ yellow pepper, finely sliced
½ red pepper, finely sliced
4-5 spring onions, finely sliced at an angle
4 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
2 tbsp teriyaki sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
6 large (24cm) flour tortillas
For the wasabi mayo
6 tbsp mayonnaise
3 tsp wasabi paste
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 tsp fresh lime juice
Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl. Dry the prawns and toss in the marinade, coating well, then leave for a couple of hours. Thread the prawns onto the skewers, head first and not too tightly, to ensure even grilling.
To prepare the other wrap ingredients, toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan with a lid held loosely over. Place the vegetables and herbs in a bowl and toss with the teriyaki sauce, toasted sesame seeds and sesame oil. Set aside.
For the mayo, spoon the mayonnaise into a bowl with the wasabi paste and salt, and combine. Gently blend in the lime juice with a whisk. Set aside.
To cook, preheat the clean grill to sizzle (you should be able to hold your hand over smoke-free, glowing charcoal for 3-4 seconds) and lightly oil. Grill the prawn skewers for 2-3 minutes on each side until firm and opaque, not charred and shrinking, as they will continue to cook for a couple of minutes once removed from the barbecue. Place the cooked prawns in a bowl, sprinkle with lime juice and season.
Place your tortillas on a work surface. Spread the wasabi mayo over the top half of each wrap (it will act as glue when rolled), dividing it equally among them. Divide the remaining ingredients among the wraps in a horizontal strip about one-third of the way up. Discard any excess teriyaki, sesame dressing or mayonnaise. Roll tightly like a cigar, sealing with the mayo. Place back on the barbecue, with the sealed edge downwards, and toast briefly all over. Slice on the diagonal and serve.
BAKED SALMON WITH TANGERINE, TARRAGON AND PINK PEPPERCORNS
The tang of the tangerine juice melds beautifully with the earthy taste of salmon.
Serves 6
For the fish
1.2kg salmon fillet, skinned and deboned
For the flavourings
10 tangerines
1 tbsp pink peppercorns, crushed
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped tarragon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
Pour the juice of 8 of the tangerines into a saucepan. Add the peppercorns and shallots, then bring to the boil. Simmer until the volume is reduced by two-thirds. Leave to cool.
To cook the salmon, tear off 2 sheets of strong foil, approximately 20cm longer than the fillet. Brush the centre of the foil, where the salmon will sit, with oil. Turn up the edges to prevent any liquids from flowing out, then pour the flavourings onto the oiled area and scatter with the chopped tarragon.
Season the salmon on both sides before placing on top of the flavourings, skin (presentation) side up. Now position the long sides of the foil together and fold
over until it is wrapped loosely around the fish. Flatten and roll the ends of the foil towards the fish, making a seal to keep everything in.
Marinate the fish for up to 2 hours before cooking. If the salmon has been refrigerated, allow time for it to lose its chill before cooking.
Heat the barbecue grill to sizzle temperature (you should be able to hold your hand over smoke-free, glowing charcoal for 3-4 seconds).
Place the parcel on the grill and cook, without turning, for 12-15 minutes. To see if the fish is done, after 12 minutes, unfold an edge of the foil and have a peek.
Serve the fish on a plate long enough to hold all of it, with a rim deep enough to contain the juices. Place the parcel on the plate and open out the foil. Tear it from the far side of the fillet so that you can flip the fish over, off the foil and onto the plate. Cooking the fish upside down ensures the flavourings will have caramelised.
Serve with the remaining tangerines, cut into wedges, and rice to soak up the juices.
SEA BASS WITH FENNEL-DILL BUTTER
A recipe as simple as it is impressive.
Serves 6
For the fish
6x450g or 3x900g sea bass
For the butter
3 tbsp olive oil
3 tsp fennel seeds, ground
6 bay leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
175g unsalted butter
2 medium fennel bulbs, or 6 baby fennel, cored and finely sliced
Juice of 2 lemons
3 tbsp chopped dill
Score the fish three times on each side, about 5mm deep, then brush the outside with olive oil. Dust the cavity with half of the fennel seeds, sprinkling the remaining half evenly over the skin. Scrunch up the bay leaves and place one in each cavity. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Season inside and out.
Heat 50g of the butter in a saucepan. Add the fennel, then season and cook gently, stirring frequently, for 8-10 minutes, or until well softened. Add the lemon juice and continue to cook for 5-7 minutes. Add and melt the rest of the butter; adjust the seasoning. Leave on the side of the barbecue to stew.
Preheat a hinged sandwich rack or grill to sizzle (see Getting the right temperature). Clean and lightly oil the rack. Cook one side of the fish for 5-7 minutes. If using a sandwich rack, turn and continue to grill for 5-7 minutes on the other side or until the flesh is cooked through. To check that the fish is cooked, insert a small, sharp knife into the fleshiest part. If cooking on the barbecue grill, do not move the fish until it is crispy. Use a fish slice to turn it over and grill for 5-7 minutes more, until cooked through.
To serve, stir the dill into the warm fennel butter. Transfer the fish to a serving platter and pour over the butter. Serve with minted new potatoes and french beans.
Blistering Barbecues by Nigel and Kate Tunnicliff and Tim Reeves is out now (Absolute Press £14.99). Available at Books First price of £10.95, plus £2.25 p&p, on 0870 165 8585, or visit www.timesonline.co.uk/booksfirstbuy. To order a Blistering Barbecue, visit www.blistering.co.uk, or to receive a 10% discount (usual price £299 including Vat, plus delivery), call 020 7720 7678 and quote Style
Next week: how to barbecue meat