Of Dubai’s dozen or so main neighbourhoods, Palm Jumeirah is well away from the commercial pockets of skyscrapers and mediocre business hotels — and a stay here puts you within striking distance of the beach. Perched on its southwestern side, the W is one of the flashiest and most youthful resorts here, with hedonism baked into its neon-lit rooftop and many-tiered pool terraces. Come for decadent restaurants, bars and two blingy “brunch” events (that’s Dubai for an afternoon-long, bottomless banquet that would make Marie Antoinette blush). With tunes by the pool and revellers spilling in at weekends, head here for a good time, not a relaxing getaway — and expect warm, surprisingly family-friendly service.
Overall score 8/10
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Rooms and suites
Score 8/10
Room categories dubbed Wonderful, Fabulous and Spectacular might pre-empt your actual reaction, but all are freshly furnished (it opened in 2019), spacious and light, with entry-level Wonderfuls packing in king-sized beds, plenty of floor space, corner sofas, a minibar/table area and balcony. Decor won’t be for everyone: glittery indigo mosaic walls, Arabic-inspired murals and clashing yellow scatter cushions can feel like you’re starring in an early 2000s pop video. Expansive balcony views over the illuminated resort at night make up for it, as does the generous sizing. The W design team loves a curvaceous, free-form sofa or circular rug, which you’ll find in the substantially bigger W Suite (from £331, room-only), with a separate living space and a tub in the bedroom. For special occasions, Jacuzzi Suites have a whirlpool tub on their sizeable decks.
Food and drink
Score 9/10
The restaurants here are one of the main selling points; locals come from all over Dubai to eat at Massimo Bottura’s Michelin-starred Torno Subito and Akira Back’s eponymous Japanese-Korean restaurant. The former is at ground level and inspired by the height of Italian dolce vita glamour — bright pastel counters and seating are set against zany zebra-striped floors with lashings of neon and black-and-white photography. Akira Back is on the rooftop and feels far more sultry, so book ahead for a romantic dinner (you can walk in at the last minute if you’re happy to sit up at the counter). You can add breakfast to your room booking for £33 per room, and it’s worth doing for Dubai’s take on the buffet: a doughnut wall, daintily portioned yoghurt, fry-up components, tropical fruit and patisserie-style cakes.
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What else is there?
Score 7/10
As per the W brand’s usual wacky style, there’s a trippy, rainbow-effect canopy over the hotel’s entrance, egg-shaped sunshades by the pool and giant Ws adorning the lawn. Among these avant-garde features, the W has all of the frills you want from a beach holiday: a smooth, man-made beach (facing back on the city’s skyscrapers, rather than out to sea), multiple pools of varying depths plus a lap pool, and ample sunbathing terraces with enough loungers and daybeds for all. W is also known for its spas, with the surreal, neon-purple number here offering the usual high-end treatments: plumping face-peels, detox body wraps and Bedouin-inspired massages (hour-long treatments from £111).
Where is it?
Score 7/10
On Palm Jumeirah, one of the man-made developments protruding from Dubai’s coast. Set on the outer halo of a long, palm-shaped set of islands branching off from the middle of the city’s coast, it feels comfortably away from its business centre and airport. The flipside, however, is that traffic sometimes bottlenecks there. Leave plenty of time for cabs heading in to see the sights or going to and from the airport.
Price room-only doubles from £188
Restaurant mains from £22
Family-friendly Y (children under 12 stay and dine for free, kids’ club available)
Dog-friendly Y (pets up to 18kg allowed, £75 fee)
Accessible Y
Lucy Thackray was a guest of W Hotel Dubai
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