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Isn’t it terribly British to love tweed? What other fabric carries such connotations of class and social standing? Whether it’s the aristocratic Prince of Wales check or a Rupert Bear plaid, tweed has been a hallmark of country life since Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson first met at Burrough Court in the Thirties.
Tweed, tartan and paisley are undergoing a renaissance — and are becoming an alternative to dour black. Tweed once meant a stiff, itchy cloth and an outdated look but, thanks to a dash of cashmere, velvet or slub silk, it is taking a step towards modernity.
The resurgence began last year. As every Moss and her dog headed to pastures green, tweed’s practicality and charm became more apparent.
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This season tweed has become sleek and refined — now worn in the city, it has had to adapt to corporate demands. It’s more groomed; skirts are close-fitting, jackets cropped and slimline.
But it does have its limits. Vivienne Westwood manipulated it too much in her Anglomania collection, so that it looked more like a museum exhibit than something that you’d actually wear. The key is a hint of whimsical irony; a pair of thigh-skimming checked shorts can still give the air of a lady of the manor.
And this season it is all about the shorts — they’re a much more exciting prospect than a plaid A-line. Pull on a pair of plum-coloured tights; sling on a fitted check jacket. Why, you might even rouge your lips, for tweed is all you need for a little pastoral sophistication.