Paperino’s claims a stretch of Byres Road once occupied by a fast-food chain, which explains why it seems to sweep back for miles in rows of tables for two to four. There is, however, nothing unremarkable about the food. The house speciality of tagliatelle nere allo scoglio is a thrilling choice, a plate of black inky pasta cooked in white wine and swimming with salmon, mussels, calamari and crayfish. The pizzas are thin, crispy and packed with toppings and vegetarians are well catered for with pasta dishes such as ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach.
Poldinos, 7 Little Belmont Street, Aberdeen, 01224 647777
Decorated in the style of a Roman villa with high ceilings and white and terracotta walls, Poldinos offers a momentary sense of being transported to a more exotic location. The menu of traditional favourites feeds the illusion. The minestrone Toscana is an exemplary specimen of the national soup and the garlic bread and bruschetta are more than mere accompaniments. Beef is a speciality: there are seven steak dishes including the filetto Rossini, tender fillet steak with Madeira sauce and pâté.
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Bellini Restaurant, 8B Abercromby Place, Edinburgh, 0131 476 2602
Attached to the cookery school of the same name, Bellini operates at the high end of the Italian dining scale. The head chef, Angelo Cimini, hails from Villa Santa Maria in Abruzzo, a town that has produced world-renowned chefs since 1290. A simple main menu is supplemented by daily specials including a fish of the day and a vegetarian and meat choice of handmade pasta. Desserts include tiramisu and profiteroles filled with a berry ice cream.