Last time we went to Australia, we did what travel agents refer to as the “rock, reef and rainforest” tour: the classic first-timer trip to Uluru, the Great Barrier Reef and the jungles of northern Queensland. It was all lovely, but we couldn’t help feeling we were merely more customers tramping the tourist trail in the world’s biggest theme park. So we want to go back, to burrow under Australia’s skin and find its soul, albeit in as much comfort as possible. We have three weeks in October.
Australian Sky: “You need to self-drive,” says Australian Sky (0844 332 9365, australiansky.co.uk), “so how about taking the Great Ocean Road from Melbourne to Adelaide?” Isn’t that just another tourist trail? “Not at that time of year — it’s a nine-day drive and you’ll have it pretty much to yourself. I’d recommend spending three or four nights in Melbourne, then hitting the road, stopping off for a couple of nights at the eco-resort on Kangaroo Island.” Are there, er, kangaroos there? “For sure — it’ll be the highlight of your trip. From there, you can head to McLaren Vale, for the wines, spend a couple of nights in Adelaide, then fly to Perth for a little taster of Western Australia.” The total cost comes to £3,000pp.
Bridge & Wickers: “Self-drive, definitely,” says Bridge & Wickers (020 7483 6555, bridgeandwickers.co.uk). “I’d spend the first week on the backroads between Sydney and Melbourne. It has lovely unspoilt coastal scenery and spots like Jervis Bay, which is incredibly beautiful. Then spend 10 days in Tasmania.” What for? “Well, it’s virtually all national park, with a real sense of the old, pioneering spirit of Oz. You’ll see more wildlife there than anywhere else in the country — and hardly any tourists. Cradle Mountain is spectacular, Strahan is a tiny fishing port from where you cruise the Gordon River, and Freycinet has some of the most mind-blowing coastal scenery on earth. And that Tasmanian wine is pretty good, too.” The price is £3,000pp.
Referee’s decision
David McGonigal, award-winning Australian travel writer and photographer: “It’s a tough call, as both have their merits, and driving does takes you off the tourist treadmill. But for the ‘real Australia’, I recommend Bridge & Wickers. Start with lunch at Bondi Icebergs, in Sydney, then explore the perfect, often deserted beaches of the New South Wales South Coast, which will give you an insight into Oz surf culture. I’d recommend a detour into the Snowy Mountains. Tasmania is great: quaint, friendly towns, bizarre Tassie devils, clean air and excellent food and wine. Try the locally grown wasabi, and don’t miss the remarkable new Museum of Old and New Art, outside Hobart.”