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Strathaird is one of the least-known peninsulas of the Isle of Skye, much shorter and more slender than its big southerly twin of Sleat, much less dramatic in its geology than the basalt masterpiece of northerly Trotternish.
Yet it has one advantage that the others lack: Strathaird is rooted at the foot of the mighty Black Cuillins, so that walking north from its tip one has those tall and savage mountains, the pride and heart of Skye, constantly in view.
And Camasunary Bay, the destination of the precarious coast path running north from the remote community of Elgol, is a wild gem, a strand of grey wave-pounded pebbles backed by a green sward whose two houses, one each end of the bay, stand dwarfed by the mountains behind them.
I suppose I had forgotten just how tricky the path from Elgol actually is: a narrow ribbon of pebbly mud in the hillside, whose seaward edge drops in several places a hundred feet sheer to the rocky shore.
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Shoved along by a good stout southwesterly wind, I needed all my head for heights, and a sure foot into the bargain, because apart from the hazards of the path itself there was the wonderful forward view as a constant distraction.
The two tiny white dots of Camasunary’s houses, three miles away when I first caught sight of them, grew only slowly, but their guardian peaks — the shark’s tooth of Bla Bheinn to the east, the blockier pyramid of Sgurr na Stri in the west — seemed to rear higher and closer each time I glanced towards them.
Behind the bay other rounded hills lumped in the middle distance, a telling contrast in shape and atmosphere to the jagged black spine of the Cuillin proper as it gradually revealed itself halfway up the sky beyond.
The coast path dropped to traverse the pebbles of Cladach a’ Ghlinne bay before rising again in another precipitous stretch. At last it set me down on the boggy moorland that forms the eastern flank of Camasunary Bay. Seals bobbed in the sea, kittiwakes and fulmars planed by, and the pebbles and rushy hinterland of the bay lay spattered with bright primary colours — not clusters of rare flora, alas, but the fractured remains of plastic fish boxes cast up by wind and tide.
My final view of Camasunary Bay was from high on the stony track back to the road — a sea-fretted pebble strand, the two tiny houses far apart, and that mighty backdrop of crumpled mountains.
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Start and finish Car parking bay opposite Cuillin View Coffee Shop, Elgol (OS ref NG 519137).
Getting there Rail (www.thetrainline.com) to Kyle of Lochalsh, bus 51 to Broadford, 49 to Elgol. Road: A87 via Skye Bridge to Broadford; B8083 to Elgol.
Walk (9 miles, moderate/hard grade, OS Explorer 411) from parking bay opposite coffee shop, walk back uphill to start of Camasunary path on left (OS ref: 520139). Walk north for 3 miles to Camasunary Bay (518137); bear right up stony track to B8083 (545172); turn right to return to Elgol.
Conditions Elgol-Camasunary is a very narrow hillside track above steep drops; possibility of vertigo. Camasunary-B8083 is a rough hill track. Walking boots and waterproof clothing recommended.
For online map, more walks www.christophersomerville.co.uk Lunch Cuillin View Coffee Shop, Elgol (01471 866223), friendly folk, home baking, great coffee, stunning views. Accommodation Hotel Eilean Iarmain, Sleat, Isle of Skye (01471 833332; www. eileaniarmain.co.uk — very traditional, welcoming atmosphere; next to the sea. From £75 single, £100 double B&B.
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More information Portree TIC (08452 255121; www.visithighlands.com); www.visitscotland.com/perfectwalks