If ever there were a season for the coat, this winter is it. Before you dismiss that sentence as utter fashion twaddle, you might want to consider the following: it’s not every winter that coats are such a focal point of the catwalk collections that it translates into an unprecedented amount of choice, whether you’re looking at designer coats, mid-market or the high street.
Other good news is that the coats are actually quite classic and mostly come in neutrals, always reassuring when you’re making your biggest sartorial investment of the year. Better still, they look as if they might keep you warm. See how promising this is looking? A stylish coat that also serves its purpose.
Whatever you decide upon, you will need to do it fast — the super on-trend versions available on the high street tend to sell out quickly, as do key designer pieces . Topshop is having a particularly cracking season, producing some excellent examples of this season’s coats. Ditto Whistles. Here’s our guide to the best styles out there.
The parka: Supersized coats were everywhere on the autumn/winter catwalks but worked best in parka form, presumably because parkas are supposed to be capacious. And while they might appear outwardly casual (great worn over jeans and trousers) don’t underestimate its ability to transform your eveningwear or even dressy daywear; for nothing looks as modern as wearing a parka with a precious dress. Working out the proportions is important — look for a dress and coat of the same length or, if you’ve got the confidence, the dress can be 4in longer than the coat. Either way, the combination will look far cooler than any fur stole or prim blazer. Fine specimens are available from Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Preen, complete with mammoth-style hoods. There are also some excellent versions to be found at a fraction of the price at Comptoir des Cottonniers and Zara for as little as £89.99.
The collarless coat: What other style allows you to (fine) layer for Britain or looks as good on shorties? Look for a style that isn’t too voluminous to avoid it gathering in unattractive folds once the coat is cinched in. Some shorter bracelet sleeves also add a whiff of the Sixties, although wear it with trousers and flats so as not to appear too retro. It’s a great choice for anyone whose face or body shape benefits from a lack of fuss at the neck. Although be warned that this is one shape that looks a little odd with a hemline that is substantially longer than the coat. Head to Baum & Pferdgarten for monochrome houndstooth; other good, brighter, versions are Suno’s woven style,Topshop’s olive-green check or & Other Stories’ pink and stone stripey number.
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The chubby: A game-changer in this winter’s coat line up. Super-sumptuous shearlings have been hovering on the horizon for the past few years but the fake-fur chubby is really breaking through this season. The most popular will no doubt be the colourful styles created by 24-year-old Hannah Weiland, founder of Shrimps, although hardly a snip at £595. More affordable versions are to be found at H&M, although, as with most coats, you get what you pay for. Few other styles will keep you this toasty when the weather turns, and its luxurious feel isn’t as twee-looking as fur. It also has an edge (and a sense of humour — now, how many coats have that?), but be warned that its cumbersome style can be engulfing and the shaggy mane, when not pristine, can look a little “ratty”. If you have a smaller frame, consider a jacket or a style without a collar to avoid looking swamped, and to balance out proportions your bottom half should be something that creates a slim-ish silhouette.
The Crombie-style coat: Extra points go to the Crombie-style coat for being both fashion-forward and insanely practical, as well as super-classic. For the most lust-worthy pieces of the season check out those by Céline, Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney, then weep when you realise they cost more than a month’s salary. Still, a well-proportioned style in navy, camel or grey could be your best purchase of the next five years. The high street has cottoned on to this too, which explains the truly gorgeous versions to be found at Hearts & Hands (for £239 from Asos), Acne and Whistles, while M&S’s navy wool-rich coat, priced at a very affordable £139, promises to be the pink coat (but better) of this winter.
The oversized coat: The oversized coat trend isn’t a million miles away from the cocoon coat of four years ago. Despite its loose fit with curved shoulders and drop sleeves, I still maintain that shorties (I’m 5ft) can get away with it if they think carefully about the proportions and include slim-ish skirts or trousers and high, blocky shoes to balance everything out. Personally I’m a fan because oversized looks more modish than twee, tight-fitting outwear. It also allows you to layer up as you please. Cocoon coats work best when they’re just above the knee and buttoned high on the breastbone — they look particularly good with buttoned-up shirts and masculine trousers. Topshop has done a fabulous boyfriend coat in boiled olive-coloured wool (nicer than it sounds), while the textured lilac/blue cocoon from Whistles is a guaranteed bestseller.
Peacoat: Not really a coat, in that most of the more flattering versions fall to the hips and not the thighs, and are therefore more of a jacket. But that’s no bad thing considering this season is predominantly one that is big on separates and not dresses, and peacoats look far better with a skirt. Classic navy is always a winner but Joseph has also produced a narrow-cut, pale-grey wool version.
The belted coat: In my fantasies this would be double-faced cashmere (unlined) and would not only be super-warm but also light and practical enough to wear on the commute home. It would be long and lean and reek of expensive otherworldliness. Unsurprisingly, not many retailers opted for the double-cashmere option, but Jaeger, Hobbs and Filippa K have come up with some great versions around the £300 mark. If the wool fabric feels a touch heavy, consider Band of Outsiders’ lined trench, which will keep you just as cosy.