With a coastline that meanders along the Adriatic for at least 1,100 miles, plus more than 1,000 islands scattered about the place, you have to wonder why so many people end up congregating in Croatia’s relatively small number of hotspots. The obvious answer is that the honeypots — Dubrovnik, Hvar Town and Rovinj among them — are undeniably and stupendously beautiful. But there’s a lot of beauty to go around, even as Croatia’s popularity soars.
And with the country entering the eurozone and the Schengen Area this month, eliminating the need to hunt down (and calculate in) obscure kunas, 2023 could well be the year to discover some of the country’s lesser-known spots.
1. Vrsar, Istria
Best for oysters and dolphin spotting
Wedged between bigger and busier neighbours Rovinj and Porec on Istria’s western coast is sleepy little Vrsar, whose narrow lanes of Venetian-style stone houses snake uphill to a 19th-century church and belltower. Casanova liked Vrsar so much that he visited twice in the 18th century, writing about it in his memoirs and — of course — having an affair with a priest’s servant.
Casanova’s Viewpoint crowns the top of this hilly fishing village, giving you lovely views of the 18 islands and islets dotted beyond the dinky marina — a kayaking and paddleboarding dream. Down here is a smattering of pebbly and rocky beaches backed by tree-shaded beach cafés, where you can kick back and do very little but swim, eat and drink in the scent of pine.
Take a boat trip south, passing Croatia’s first and largest naturist resort at Koversada to the fjord-like Limski Kanal. You’ll get the chance to stop for a swim in Pirate Cave and have lunch at waterside restaurants and oyster shacks serving Lim’s exceptionally delicious mussels and oysters, cultivated in some of the cleanest waters in the Adriatic.
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It’s just as tempting to take a boat trip in the waters around Vrsar in the early evening to see dolphins whooping it up as the sun goes down. Or carry on boating further south for a glimpse of Rovinj’s gorgeous old town — the best view is from the sea. Stay at the Belvedere Hotel & Resort, which features three pools, a waterpark and a nearby Blue Flag beach.
Details Four nights’ half-board from £369pp, including flights and transfers (tui.co.uk)
2. Rastoke/Slunj, Karlovac County
Best for rivers and canyons
While Plitvice Lakes National Park — with its 16 lakes, rivers and countless waterfalls — certainly deserves its place on Croatia’s list of top attractions, it can get insanely busy. You need to time your visit carefully to avoid being constantly swept along in a tide of tourists jostling for space on the park’s narrow wooden walkways. But drive north for about half an hour and you reach the neighbouring towns of Rastoke and Slunj, both of which share the karst landscape of rivers and canyons that makes Plitvice so captivating — but with just a fraction of the crowds. The source of the Korana River that flows through Rastoke is at one of Plitvice’s waterfalls, but unlike in Plitvice, where swimming is banned, you’re able to dive into its cool clear waters — pure joy on a hot summer’s day. It’s also a magnet for rafters and kayakers who have the nerve to tackle the more than 30 waterfalls that tumble along a stretch of otherwise inaccessible waters.
There’s a distinct alpine feel here among the old tufa and wood mill houses that hover over the waterfalls and weirs gently rumbling through Rastoke. Before you know it Rastoke blends into Slunj, where the Slunjcica, a tributary of the Korana, twists past the old town’s medieval fortress, with green-shaded walking trails running beside. Look down and you’ll spot fat trout meandering through the waters — some of the most succulent fish in the region, which inevitably end up being served in local restaurants. A good place to base yourself is the Holiday House Rastoke Pod Lipom, a converted watermill that sleeps four in two bedrooms.
Details One night’s self-catering from £114 (rastokehouse.com). Fly to Zagreb
3. Eastern Mljet
For sandy beaches and a famous cave
Day-trippers from Dubrovnik and people who’ve done a spot of island-hopping in Dalmatia will know about Mljet — or at least the Mljet National Park that makes up the western quarter of this long thin island. With its hiking and cycling trails, saltwater lakes, pine-covered peaks and romantic little island monastery, for many people the national park is Mljet. But that only scratches the surface of this lusciously green island, which is certainly worth more than a day trip.
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Head eastwards to find secluded beaches, including pebbly Sutmiholjska, squeezed into a narrow inlet on the southern coast. Just beyond is yet another cave where Odysseus is said to have been held captive by Calypso — the Med is packed with these — but a visit to this one is worth the effort. Follow the Put Maslina (Olive Path) from the village of Babino Polje through olive groves and fragrant scrub until you reach the rocky ledge overlooking the cave. Here you have the choice of joining the locals jumping off into impossibly blue waters — not for the faint-hearted — or sitting back with a cold drink in the delightfully ramshackle café that is somehow squeezed on to the rocky footpath.
By the time you reach the easternmost point of the island, you arrive at some of Croatia’s rare sandy beaches. Flop under a parasol on the larger of Saplunara Bay’s beaches, or find a shady spot under the pines at Mala Saplunara. If you’re looking for something more remote, follow the dusty track that leads to the sheltered sands of Limuni, set in a deep, pine-fringed bay. Stay at PineTree Boutique Apartments overlooking Saplunara Bay; it has stylish studios and one-bedroom apartments with sea views and a shared pool.
Details B&B doubles from £158 (pinetreemljet.com). Fly to Dubrovnik
4. Drvenik Veli and Drvenik Mali
Best for a tale of two islands
Tiny Trogir, an exquisite Unesco-listed island town west of Split that is firmly on the tourist radar, can easily become rammed in high season. But hop on one of the ferries that shuttle over to the two Drvenik islands (Veli is big; Mali small) and you’ll exchange the crowds for empty swimming coves, cute little harbours and footpaths through olive groves. While day-trippers try to cram both islands into one visit, it’s much more tempting to stay for a few days, or even a week, and give yourself a proper taste of sultry summertime Dalmatian life.
Drvenik Veli does, however, have a honeypot of its own. At its southwestern point is the Blue Lagoon (one of several in Dalmatia), whose startlingly turquoise waters between the two Krknjas islets attract a steady stream of boat trips from Trogir. If you want to swim and snorkel in peace, get there early.
Rent a bike (preferably an e-bike) and pootle through fragrant farmland to Drvenik Veli’s beaches tucked into coves, starting with Solinska on the south coast. Pack a pair of protective swimming shoes to get the most out of the island’s rocky and pebbly beaches. For a change of scenery, take the ferry to Drvenik Mali and head to the sandy beach at Vela Rina Bay, which is only about 20 minutes’ walk from the port. As with its bigger neighbour, the pace here is wonderfully languid — pack some good books and a lilo, and be prepared to slow down. Stay at Villa Imota near Drvenik Veli village; it has four bedrooms, a pool and access to a rocky beach.
Details Seven nights’ self-catering for up to ten people from £1,742 (novasol.hr). Fly to Split
5. Lumbarda, Korcula
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Best for unique wines and mellow vibes
The handsome walled main town of Korcula, one of the most appealing islands in Dalmatia, is rather like a less frenetic version of Dubrovnik, effortlessly attracting the crowds, especially those on sailing and cruising tours. If you’re looking for a mellower base, you just need to drive about ten minutes southeast, to the fishing village of Lumbarda.
This friendly, unpretentious place has quite a few things going for it — fans of sandy beaches make a beeline for the two pebble-free stretches, Bilin Zal and Vela Przina, which flank a narrow part of the misshapen coast. There’s even a postage stamp-sized bit of sandy beach in the main part of the village, which is where in summer everyone gets together for weekly Friday-night fish festivals. It’s just as entertaining sitting on pebbly Prvi Zal beach, watching all the paddleboarders and kayakers make their way round the string of islets facing the bay.
What makes Lumbarda stand out, though, is its wine-making scene. It’s the only village on the island — in the world, in fact — that cultivates the grk grape, turning this juicy green jewel into one of Croatia’s finest yet least-known white wines. Lumbarda’s ten wineries also produce full-bodied red plavac mali, which is used to pollinate the female grk grape. If you like wine and want to try some new flavours, pop in for a tasting at the convivial Zure, Bire and Popic wineries. Base yourself in a spacious apartment with a terrace at Eco Aparthotel at the Dreamers’ Club, near Prvi Zal beach and Lumbarda’s harbour.
Details B&B studio for two adults and one child from £178 (adriaticpearls.com). Fly to Dubrovnik
Mary Novakovich is the author of My Family and Other Enemies: Life and Travels in Croatia’s Hinterland (£8.99; bradtguides.com)
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