When you arrive at a pub midweekand it’s already bustling at 6pm, you know you’re in for a treat. Better still, come to the Running Horses in Mickleham, near Dorking in winter and you’ll be met by the inviting roar of an open fire. This 16th-century inn, in the Surrey Hills, was once a coaching house on the main trade route from London and has been welcoming guests for more than 400 years. It’s packed with character, from antique horse racing medals on the walls to old equestrian buckles attached to room keys.
Overall score 8/10
Main photo: The Running Horses, Surrey
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Rooms and suites
Score 8/10
The seven bedrooms — four standard, two deluxe and one superior — were renovated in 2023 and all come with their own quirks. They’re named after racecourses, including Epsom (a 15-minute drive), Cheltenham and Ascot, and have plush quilted headboards and boldly patterned throws. Nods to the inn’s history include horsey antiques and historic drawings of Dorking and Box Hill. The Windsor room is our pick — it’s cosy with a spacious bathroom and large windows that overlook the quaint church and churchyard across the road. Two of the bedrooms are dog-friendly and guests bringing dogs have to pay an additional cleaning fee of £30.
Food and drink
Score 9/10
Bog-standard pub grub has no place in the Running Horses’ restaurant. It’s upmarket and intimate with walls painted in deep reds and browns and decorated with vintage sketches of racehorses and old photographs of Dorking. Starters may include whipped cod roe, seaweed and potato crisps or the wild boar terrine. For mains, the lobster and hake pie is a great twist on a comforting classic and the steaks are excellent. There’s a generous selection of wines by the glass or try Shere Drop, a beer brewed in the Surrey Hills. The bourbon and chocolate pudding delivers the perfect finale. The service is warm and relaxed and staff are happy to give personal recommendations. Outside there’s a compact but pretty courtyard with heaters and fairy lights. In the morning, there’s no breakfast buffet, but the à la carte menu more than makes up for it. Try the scrambled eggs on sourdough with parmesan and grilled mushrooms.
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What else is there?
Score n/a
Nothing else — the perfect excuse to hunker by that fire.
Where is it?
Score 8/10
There’s not much to do in the tiny village of Mickleham, but Leatherhead’s town centre is a 10-minute drive and Dorking’s high street is just eight minutes. But really it’s all about the walks, with Box Hill and Denbies Wine Estate close by.
Hannah Gravett was a guest of the Running Horses
Price room-only doubles from £120
Restaurant mains from £16
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly Y
Accessible N
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