It’s the ultimate hospitality cliché but this Georgian manor house in the classic Cotswolds village of Crudwell near Malmesbury really does feel like a home away from home. Perhaps the fact that Alex Payne, one of the owners, is a former music-industry executive sprinkles a laissez-faire informality through its super-smart sitting rooms, conservatory-style dining room and Scandi-influenced bedrooms. Food by Jake Simpson, who was trained by Jeremy Lee, the acclaimed Quo Vadis chef, offers refined informality. Design-wise, the moody bar is the full-on Keith Richards (in his prime) to entice late-night over-indulgence. There is a pretty pool in the garden for a pre-breakfast refresher.
Overall score 8/10
Main photo: the Rectory offers mid-century sleekness with Scandi-influenced rooms (Jake Eastham)
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Rooms and suites
Score 9/10
The Rectory’s previous incumbent was a clergyman who sired 14 children and would probably condemn the 18 bedrooms now as sinfully decadent. The rest of us, however, will offer up a silent prayer of thanks for their mid-century sleekness. The Scandi influence is obvious: sisal flooring, coat pegs in place of wardrobes, crisply executed modern art and the prerequisite of the boutique hotel — the freestanding bath in the bedroom (here enhanced by a jar of lavender bath salts to encourage idling). Many rooms have original beams, elegant fireplaces and the sort of layouts demanded by grade II listed buildings (it’s like a rambling country home). The duvets are goose down, the wallpaper is floral and there are window seats a plenty. Views of rural England through the sash windows top it all off.
Food and drink
Score 8/10
Jake Simpson has created an interesting, thoroughly British dining experience in a room that is effortlessly elegant and airy. You could start with a flavour-packed smoked cod’s roe with rock samphire and seaweed, before opting for a gutsy braised ox cheek with beetroot, mash and horseradish. For a romantic gesture, there’s chateaubriand with creamed potatoes, braised red cabbage and a salsa verde. You may even choose to skip dessert, but do consider returning to the bar for a postprandial drink served in a vintage cocktail glass.
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What else is there?
Score 7/10
The outdoor heated swimming pool, located behind a hurdle fence, is open from May to October. The classic country garden has a lily-strewn ornamental pond, croquet lawn and views over to the former rectory’s raison d’être, the pretty All Saints Church. Stretching out on a sofa in one of the inviting lounges and reading from the stacks of books, magazines and papers is encouraged. One sitting room has a teeny games room to the side if you want to challenge a fellow guest to a game of poker.
Where is it?
Score 9/10
The Rectory is located between historic Malmesbury and the increasingly trendy Cirencester. There are pretty walks nearby and across the road is the Potting Shed, a cracking little gastropub owned by the hotel.
Price B&B doubles from £170
Restaurant mains from £22
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly Y
Accessible N
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