The next generation of sea legs

This summer, 30-odd years later, David, our three-year-old daughter Peggy and I did it in a little over half that, thanks to Brittany Ferries’ new flagship, Pont Aven. Still, 18 hours at sea is not to be sniffed at — particularly when crossing the Bay of Biscay in the inevitable gale. Luckily for us, Peggy takes after her father and quickly found her sea legs, swaggering round the decks like a mini John Wayne. There was no need to worry about keeping her occupied.

Ham and chips was all it took — though her resolute munching was not much appreciated by the miserable hordes hunched over sickbags.

So it was we arrived in Santander, the self-assured port capital of the autonomous province of Cantabria. We could have happily stayed all day, drinking café con leche in the cathedral square and watching poised Santanderinos go about their affairs, but we had to collect the keys for our holiday cottage.

Though only a short drive out of Santander, there was nothing remotely urban about Finca el Pinar. The purpose-built holiday cottage faced on to a densely wooded slope with the River Pas running behind. In true Spanish style there was a building site to one side, but the work never disturbed us.

Here, in the evenings and on “home” days we larked about in the pool, chased Peggy away from the small arcade of electronic games in the garden or helped her as she tirelessly ferried Barbies and Power Rangers from the playhouse to her bedroom and back again. Happily for me, David pronounced himself in charge of the barbecue, manfully gutting sardines while I washed floppy lettuces and opened bottle after bottle of cold rosé. For breakfast I squeezed bags of oranges to accompany peaches and melon that we ate with white rolls and local butter.

While British visitors to Cantabria are relatively few (most drive south from Santander), its magnificent scenery and scalloped coastline are beloved of Spanish tourists. We could see why. Much of Spain fries in summer, but this region offers cool spells and showers of fine rain, known locally as chirimiri, that break up the days and offer a welcome respite from the heat. The sociable Spanish like the 11 urban beaches around Peninsula La Magdalena and El Sardinero at the eastern end of Santander, where there are also gardens, a playground and sports facilities. Being less sociable, we favoured the deserted Playa de Ballota, west of Santander and just over the regional border in Asturias: an arc of turquoise sea, white sand, pink rocks, green cliffs and blue sky, and no one there except a few feral goats and the nudists who, in our experience, are a sign of the best beaches. We spent a perfect day there until it came to home time and Peggy balked at climbing the steep steps back up to the road.

The next day we decided to explore the Pasiega area, the mountainous interior of Cantabria that has not changed much since David visited as a boy. The roads are narrow and hillsides are dotted with famous Pasiega cabins that serve as cowsheds and temporary homes for farmers leading their herds to fresh pastures. We hadn’t packed a picnic so headed off to eat in Liérganes, a lovely old town with narrow streets, 17th-century architecture, cafés, bars, artisan shops and churches and chapels.

What a contrast to Santillana del Mar. Cantabria guidebooks say the medieval town with its cobblestones and ancient buildings is a “must-see”. But we fled the minute we saw parking attendants with bulging moneybelts waiting to shepherd us into expensive slots, a café called Casa German and hundreds of tourists aimlessly milling about.

We went instead to the Altamira Caves, which have some of the world’s finest palaeolithic art. You’re no longer allowed in the caves, but a museum provides an atmospheric substitute. “Was the mummy very cross?” Peggy asked when I told her that a caveman had painted the walls.

We spent our last morning back in Liérganes. Peggy was dancing with excitement at the prospect of going on the big boat again. We had no airport parking to find or onerous check-in requirements, so we could relax. It set the tone for our return journey — which this time was calm. Peggy soon wore herself out in the playroom and at the pool, which meant she happily slept while David and I ate dinner à deux. Now that’s what I call civilised.

Next page: need to know

()NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Chloë Bryan-Brown and family travelled with Brittany Ferries (0870 3665333, www.brittanyferries.co.uk), which offers returns from Plymouth to Santander in late September from £782 for two adults and two children travelling in a standard car with a four-berth cabin.

Ryanair (0871 2460000, www.ryanair.co.uk) is launching flights from Stansted to Santander on Monday, returns from £24 including taxes.

Where to stay: Finca el Pinar costs from £61 a day when you rent through Spanish Affair (020-7385 8127, www.spanishaffair.com). Crossings are extra but can be arranged through Spanish Affair from £816.

Going out: Parqué de la Naturaleza de Cabárceno (00 34 942 563736) is an enormous zoo, where animals roam semi-free in an impressive mountain setting. Take a picnic. Adults £8.30, children £5.80. Altamira Museum (818815, www.museodealtamira) has replica cave art and plenty of interactive exhibits for children. Adults £1.60, under-18s free.

Further information: Spanish Tourist office (020-7486 8077, www.tourspain.co.uk). Cantabria Tourism (www.turismo.cantabria.org, Spanish only).

Travelling by Car Within the Cantabrian Region (free from tourist offices) is a useful guide.