South Africans Koos Bekker and Karen Roos are big Jane Austen fans as well as being billionaires. When they saw that Hadspen House and its idyllic 800 acres near Bruton were up for sale in 2013, they snapped them up to indulge their passion for the Georgian author in glorious 3D and opened grade II listed Hadspen as a hotel in 2019. It was an immediate hit, with interiors that blended cutting-edge contemporary with Palladian splendour (Roos was formerly editor of Elle Decoration South Africa), accompanied by the country house prerequisites of a fabulous restaurant and spa. But then they got seriously into Somerset history. They designed extravagant gardens that would make the National Trust turn as green as a bowls lawn. At their centre is the egg-shaped Parabola walled garden, planted with 460 British apple trees, trained and arranged in a baroque-style maze. They have since added an award-winning cider business and the Story of Gardening museum. In 2022, Hadspen set a new benchmark for the hospitality world, opening a precise recreation of a Roman villa that sat within the estate until the 4th century. It is one of the most ambitious archeological projects undertaken in Europe and gives you an insight into Roman life that very nearly beats a trip to Pompeii.
Overall score 9/10
Main photo: a cosy spot for relaxation at Hadspen at the Newt
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Rooms and suites
Score 8/10
The Elle Decoration influence is obvious in the 23 bedrooms. Thirteen are in the house, the rest scattered in characterful buildings including the old stables and 18th-century clock house. The style is stripped back and there are no curtains — instead sash windows have simple shutters. There are bottle blue velvet sofas at the end of the tester beds but no (annoying) mountain of cushions atop the pillows. Panelled walls are painted in peppermint greens and powder blues, wooden floors are adorned with rugs rather than thick carpets. The Loft rooms are particularly charming with exposed beams. Things get cosier in the Stable rooms. One has a bed tucked in between the stalls and the original hay mangers now sit beside wood-burning stoves.
Food and drink
Score 9/10
Lunches at the Garden Café, which overlooks the Parabola, flip conventions deliciously so roasted parsnip and pickled pear is served as a main course and estate lamb and beef as optional side orders. The Botanical Rooms restaurant has an open kitchen and a striking glass extension for romantic dinner. Its reassuringly concise menu stays fuss-free with day-boat fish served with smoked cod roe and Tamworth pork with cider and greens. Breakfast is a generous spread of creamy yoghurts, fruits, compotes and homemade cinnamon buns; ditch the traditional fry-up for estate mushrooms on sourdough.
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What else is there?
Score 10/10
The spa, in a converted cowshed, has an indoor/outdoor pool, steam, sauna and a medieval herb garden whose healing plants are used in treatments. There is a well-equipped gym and very possibly the UK’s prettiest yoga studio with instruction by a Team GB triathlete. There are also the gardens, food and homeware shops, tours of its cider bottling plant and the excellent Story of Gardening museum. But the must-do experience is the incredible Roman villa, where you can touch all the exhibits and even try Roman food (the lamb stew is surprisingly tasty).
Where is it?
Score 9/10
The Newt estate is near Bruton, which is home to the Hauser & Wirth art gallery. The cathedral city of Wells and Frome’s arty shops are also nearby.
Price B&B doubles from £520
Restaurant three-course dinner in the Botanical Rooms, £75
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly N
Accessible Y
thenewtinsomerset.com
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