Why go?
The capital may be top of your Grecian hitlist, but vibrantly multicultural, student-filled Thessaloniki is Greece’s alternative capital of cool. Roman ruins, Byzantine churches and Ottoman markets are the landmarks, surrounded by hip shops, art galleries, fusion bistros and traditional ouzeries. And if it’s hot, hit the beach – Thessaloniki is right by the sea.
The pefect weekend
Start with a jolt to the senses in one of Thessaloniki’s buzzy markets – the Saturday-morning Bit Bazaar flea market, close to the Roman Agora and the Basilica of Ag. Dimitrios. Then take a bus to the 4th-century AD Kastro castle for coffee with a view, then walk down through the Medieval city, seeking out two Byzantine jewels: 14th-century Ag. Nikolaos Orfanos and 5th-century Ossios David, with its magical mosaic. After lunch, check out the new Centre for Contemporary Art (www.cact.gr; free), before joining the crowds by the seafront for a drink. For dinner, order meze (fava-bean purée, salads, grilled octopus) at the traditional ouzerie Ta Louloudadika (20 Komninon; 00 30 2310 225624; mains around £5) before heading out for edgy world music at the Mylos club (Andreou Georgiou 56; entry £15). Next day, visit the Archaeology Museum (www.amth.gr; £5), home to a unique masterpiece: the 4th-century BC Dervini Krater, an ornate funerary urn. Then take a taxi east for a swim at Aretsou Beach and a long lazy seaside lunch: fresh prawns in yogurt sauce at classic 70-year-old fish taverna Hamodrakas (00 30 23104 47943; mains around £8).
Where to stay
Daios Luxury Living (00 30 2310 250200, www.daioshotels.com; doubles from £140, B&B) is right on the sea and comes with contemporary design and a free minibar. Orestias Katorias (00 30 2310 276517, www.okhotel.gr; doubles from £45, room only), in the heart of town, has tidy, high-ceilinged rooms.
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EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick in summer. Fly Thomas Cook (www.flythomascook.com) flies from Manchester from £155 return. Kirker (020 7593 1899, www.kirkerholidays.com) has three nights’ B&B at a five-star hotel from £757pp, with flights from Gatwick.