Go independent
Fly from Stansted to Tours with Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Or go by train with Rail Europe (0844 848 4070, www.raileurope.co.uk); the fastest journey from London is a touch over four-and-a-half hours, from £89 return. Once there, you’ll need a car. Try Nova Car Hire (00 353 669 791801, www.novacarhire.com), from £174 per week. In your own car, Tours is two-and-a-half hours from the port of Caen, five hours from Calais.
Where to stay
In the historical heart of Chinon, the two-star Hotel Diderot (00 33 247 931887, www.hoteldiderot.com; doubles from £54, room only) has the Loire’s warmest family welcome. For more pomp, head for Amboise and the four-star Manoir Les Minimes (00 33 247 304040, www.manoirlesminimes.com; doubles from £109, room only). Or rent a chateau of your own for the week through www.simplychateau.com or www.holiday-chateau.com.
Go packaged
Travelzest’s VFB Holidays (0800 171 2160, www.travelzest.com) offers a seven-night, self-catering stay at a farmhouse near Ste-Catherine-de-Fierbois, from £245 a week for four, including self-drive ferry travel. Inntravel (01653 617000, www.inntravel.co.uk) has a week’s self-guided walking from £710pp, B&B, plus some meals.
Other castles
We also recommend visiting Blois (best in-town chateau), Loches (memories of the Plantagenets and Joan of Arc), Rivau (fairytale gardens) and Candé (where the Duke and Duchess of Windsor wed). Meanwhile, Azay-le-Rideau is beautiful, but see it as you pass by – little is gained by paying to go in.
For further information try www.visaloire.com first, www.chateauxtourisme.com second.