The pandemic has all but put an end to the concept of an “off-season”, and that’s good news for travellers. Well, it was until Omicron came along. Yet our desire to escape has probably never been greater, despite the Covid-related hurdles, and Italian hoteliers are ready for us.
Take the luxury hotel group Belmond. For the first time, the team behind some of the world’s most fabulous escapes has extended the season in some of its most celebrated Italian outposts: Grand Hotel Timeo in Sicily and the glamorous Splendido Mare in Portofino. And it’s not just the Belmond crew that has caught on to the trend. The doors of Rosewood’s Castiglion del Bosco in Tuscany and Puglia’s Paragon 700 also remain open for winter. After a tricky summer season, you can’t blame them.
Christmas on the Italian coast might seem an unlikely idea for UK travellers, but Portofino pulls off the festivities with aplomb: rocky fortresses clad in glitter, squares alive with tinsel in every shade of green, blowout parties and temperatures that still manage to hit the low 20s. Even in the winter months, the water continues to sparkle and there’s still a luxury yacht or two berthed in front of the colourful fishermen’s houses on the harbourfront. In a display of off-season chic, the fashion set’s Gucci and Prada frocks blend with the Hollywood throwback glamour of this high-end Ligurian village. Don’t forget to pack a hat and at least three pairs of sunglasses.
The Splendido Mare is as splendid as advertised. Recently refurbished by the Parisian architectural studio Festen, the spaces are a mix of Italian designer pieces and vintage totems alongside a formidable array of local artworks. Once Christmas hits you can expect a massive party, which in Belmond-land means lots of posh frocks, flamboyant hats and the odd glass shoe. Winter is also the perfect time to explore the museum offerings in nearby Genoa. Don’t miss the GAM, the modern art museum, which has more than 3,000 works of art, sculptures and engravings by the Italian masters.
Further south, in Sicily, you can catch some winter sun at the Grand Hotel Timeo. Those who know Taormina will tell you this Kodak-moment town is overrun with tourists in summer, but, come winter, the place is yours. The flower- festooned Timeo palace has some of the best views in Italy — from balcony suites you look straight out on to Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. And the hotel’s history is just as impressive as its cinematic panoramas; it was popular with young men venturing out on the Grand Tour. Everyone from DH Lawrence (rumour has it he wrote Lady Chatterley’s Lover here) to Truman Capote has stayed, along with a wealth of royals and European aristocrats.
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The Timeo is grand and old-fashioned, but not at all stuffy. Polished parquet floors, antiques and paintings are natu-rally part of the grande-dame deal, but the 21st-century add-ons (iPod docks, a suite with a hot tub and a view) are enough to keep well-heeled millennials happy for a day or two. This month Timeo will usher in Sweet Weekends, 48 hours of debauched sugar overload. Sicilian pastries will be served alongside the usual seasonal brunch, and on Sundays local chefs show off their patisserie skills with cooking classes in which you’ll learn to make sugary Modica chocolate, cannoli and cassata.
Outside the hotel there’s plenty more to do. Sicily Lifestyle’s private tour of the mighty volcano can be customised — choose from a 4x4 drive, a guided hike or even a helicopter tour around the summit — while lunch at a local vineyard allows you to taste some of the region’s best volcanic wines, many of which are unavailable beyond Sicily’s borders. The Teatro Antico di Taormina draws in all the crowds, along with the stunning rocky outcrop of Isola Bella, but ask any local and they’ll tell you the only thing to do in Taormina is to hit the Via di Giovanni and grab a granita from BamBar. The never-ending line outside the small shop speaks for itself.
Back up north, the Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco has caught the winter-travel bug. This Tuscan estate will keep its doors open until January 9 to prove that it isn’t just a haven for the summer months. Plus, with 19 newly designed private suites, now is the time to check in with the family without all the stress of the August crowds.
Instead of lounging under the Tuscan sun, there are expert-led truffle hunts, Christmas markets in the village, jolly ice-skating soirées, tours of Montalcino’s finest wineries with lunch and gingerbread-making classes for the children. Winter-themed spa sessions are also on the menu, with hot stone full-body massages a perennial favourite.
● The best luxury villas in Italy
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If the countryside festivities get too much, make for nearby Siena for a taste of city life. At this time of year, the Piazza del Campo goes Christmas crackers with its annual festive market full of regional foods, arts and crafts, so you can more or less do your Christmas shop in one drop. The museum of Santa Maria della Scala is well worth a visit too. To eat? Il Carroccio for a plate of super-thick pici (think fat spaghetti) with extra cheese.
Down south in Puglia, party season goes on all year round. Normally busy with tourists photographing the vintage Italian chimneys, Ostuni off-season is just you and the Pugliesi. Here you can stay at Paragon 700, which dates from the 17th century and, after its recent grand refurbishment, has 11 dazzling rooms and suites.
Interiors are eclectic with bejewelled frescoes, giant bedheads and vast pendant lights. With the added benefits of a walled garden, spa, outdoor pool with tropical shrubs and intimate gourmet restaurant, it’s the perfect romantic winter getaway.
Enjoy extracurricular adventures in Ostuni’s great restaurants: Porta Nova charms with a seafood menu devoted to crudo di mare (seafood platter) and some dreamy sea views, while for those in search of southern Italian classics Osteria Ricanatti has all the headliners, with belting Salento wines to match.
Forget Blighty this winter: embrace inverno Italian-style.
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B&B doubles at Splendido Mare from £375; B&B doubles at Grand Hotel Timeo from £345 (belmond.com). B&B doubles at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco from £594 (rosewoodhotels.com). B&B doubles at Paragon 700 from £298 (paragon700.com)
Three more places to stay now
1. La Posta Vecchia, Lazio
Built on the site of a 17th-century castle in Ladispoli, outside Rome, the sister hotel Il Pellicano offers Italian grandeur at its finest. The oil baron J Paul Getty once owned this seaside retreat. He upgraded it in the 1960s and today its 19 rooms and suites are just as groovy, with tasteful antiques, a moody indoor pool and elegant details that include chiselled bedheads and taps. La Posta Vecchia is available for exclusive use in winter; enjoy its award-winning spa treatments, explore the local area on horseback, or borrow a bike for adventures along the coast.
Details Seven nights’ B&B for 10 from £42,500 (postavecchiahotel.com). Fly to Rome
2. Forestis, Bolzano
You may have spotted this alpine wellness retreat in the Dolomites on Instagram. The owners, Stefan Hinteregger and Teresa Unterthiner, take eco-friendly to the max (no overdone fur throws here) and the mountain views — featuring staggeringly beautiful sunsets — are matched by top-notch spa treatments; tree therapy, salt baths and a Finnish-style sauna are all on offer. Rooms have vast windows, bathrooms are hewn from Dolomite stone and, in the suites, there are balconies with daybeds. Food? The tasting menu changes constantly, but expect local and earthy all year round.
Details B&B doubles from £561 (forestis.it). Fly to Verona or Milan
3. Four Seasons San Domenico Palace, Sicily
The San Domenico Palace has been a hotel since 1896, welcoming everyone from Audrey Hepburn to King Edward VII. Originally a 14th-century convent, it retains many of its original features but has been overhauled by Four Seasons. The pool and gardens are eye-catchers, with spectacular views of the sea and mighty Etna, but it’s the Michelin-starred Principe Cerami that’s the star of the show, offering tasting menus that celebrate local produce. The Mount Etna wines are excellent too.
Details B&B doubles from £678 (fourseasons.com/taormina). Fly to Catania
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