Everyone seems to agree that what Britain needs is more shops. Birmingham has its Bullring; Manchester the Trafford and Arndale centres; in London there is Westfield and soon a million square feet of retail space will open in Leeds, branded “Trinity”. To the list can now be added the Liverpool One development: a “shopping and leisure centre”, apartments and offices, and a brand-new, four-star Hilton hotel.
This, presumably, is where Paris Hilton stays when she’s in Liverpool.The heiress and reality TV star, as much a product of our times as the urban retail centre, will get a warm welcome in the curved, 215-room block that sits just across from the Albert Docks.
When I stayed, there were hordes of staff in the airy reception, all fresh from Hilton training and visibly proud to be working in the city’s new hub.
A beautifully lit staircase dominates the hall and leads to an area that’s used for weddings, conferences and the like. I took the lift and within moments found myself on the seventh floor (where the suites and executive rooms, as well as the best views, can be found).
In our room, the TV was already blaring, not just from the set itself but speakers in the bathroom. This prompted several minutes of scrabbling around pressing all the buttons on the TV remote and shouting to my guest, “WHY WON’T THIS WORK? IT SAYS IT’S ON MUTE!”, before locating the button by the sink.
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I also took the chance to check out the Crabtree & Evelyn La Source products, including the bath fizzer, and steam-free mirrors. There is, of course, a hairdryer in the room; an iron and board, kettle, minibar, stereo alarm, safe, wi-fi? and a fabulous bed, covered in white linen and dark red cushions, that would fit at least three normal, or four to five LA-sized bodies.
And a beautiful little trio of chocolate desserts had been left for us – a mousse, a meltingly rich cake and some kind of chocolate sauce in a shot glass.
Downstairs is the Pima bar and Exchange restaurant. Pima is just the place for a young lady of a certain income to meet with friends, and late on a Friday or Saturday night its large, circular booths, padded in black leather, are full of giggling Liverpudlian women. At quieter times they are perfect for an intimate pre-dinner drink, with couples being able to choose from an extensive list of cocktails – the Pima Bramble, a champagne cocktail (£9.90), and the Palermo, a blend of tequila, agave, lime and soda (£6.50) are both excellent.
Somewhat bizarrely, Pima is themed around Liverpool’s historic links with the cotton industry – its logo features a needle and thread, cotton is built into the walls, and the cocktails include a list of drinks using spirits from “the southern states”. According to the International Slavery Museum in Liverpool, the city’s ships transported half the three million Africans taken to America to work as slaves, largely on cotton plantations in the American South.
But Paris didn’t get where she is today by getting too bogged down in history, so she will probably see her cocktail off and head to the Exchange restaurant. The head chef, Matthew Burns, has taken the trouble to source local ingredients and their origins are explained on the menu, which is a nice touch. The cheese board also celebrates the region’s fine cheeses.
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I started with a delicious salad of wood pigeon, pancetta and chestnuts in blackberry dressing (£8.95).The North West smoked fish platter – potted shrimp with salmon, trout and mackerel – was outstanding at £11.50.
The main course options might disappoint a vegetarian, the choice being between a rather pedestrian-sounding penne pasta or risotto, but the Pennine venison (£23.95) was served perfectly pink, and roasted chicken with creamed cabbage (£17.50) was ideal soothing fare for those travelling a long way from home. It was almost impossible to choose between the delectable desserts, but the lemon posset was heavenly.
All this, along with some great wines (we tried a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at £6.15 a glass and a Gamay at £34.95 a bottle) was served up by a knowledgeable and eager-to-please waiter, who reveals that, since the Hilton family no longer control the Hilton family of hotels, you are not after all very likely to see Paris at the Hilton Liverpool.
But perhaps her type of pampered frequent flyer is the typical customer – on the notepad in my room could still be seen the imprint of a previous guest’s pen. He or she had written down the mobile number of someone called “Mummy”.
There are only a few reviews for the hotel on tripadvisor at the time of writing, but there is an impressive 5/5 average. Visitors were impressed by the service and shiny new facilities.
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This encourages me to think that the slightly unfortunate breakfast I had in the main dining area (an “executive lounge” is available to guests staying on the seventh floor) was just a blip – our eggs had been pre-poached and unsuccessfully reheated, and (shock!) there was no Marmite. The staff are so keen and friendly, though, that not even the pickiest celebrity would have the heart to complain.
Bottom line: Rooms start from £89 per room per night
Need to know: The Hilton Hotel Liverpool, 3 Thomas Steers Way, Liverpool L1 8LW, tel. 0151 7084200; www.hilton.co.uk/liverpool
Worst thing: The eggs need work
Best thing: The helpful staff
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Access all areas: A new building, the Hilton has lifts, wide corridors, disabled toilets etc. There are five semi-accessible and six fully accessible rooms.
Food: 7/10
Room: 9/10
Service: 9/10
Value: 7/10