The American Vogue editor, and host of tomorrow night’s Met ball, has proved herself human. Anna Wintour’s canapé diktats for last year’s event, seen in a documentary about the evening, suggests that she, too, struggles to eat party food with poise. Apparently, her requests included “no onions or garlic” (too smelly), “no bruschetta” (too crumbly) and “no parsley” because “you don’t want that stuck in your teeth”.
She has a point. Canapés keep getting more ambitious, with mixed results. Bowl food is a case in point — great for hands-free men, but tricky if you’re juggling a handbag and champagne flute (especially mini cones of fish and chips that can’t be put down). And please can we ditch those china spoons you can’t actually fit in your mouth, forcing you to hand a half-licked spoon back to the poor waitress. Worst of all is the theory that bigger is better. “Mini” burgers are never conducive to mingling. Should you take it at a slow nibble and risk a cascade of ketchup? Or shove the whole thing in at once, leaving you hamster-cheeked and mute?
“A well-thought-out canapé can be consumed in one mouthful, without overfilling your mouth or having to extensively chew mid-conversation,” agrees James Field, training manager at the Debrett’s Training Academy. “If faced with something sizeable, ensure that you are using your left hand to hold it. That way, you can keep your right hand free from grease for meeting others.”
Any canapé taboos? “It is very poor form to take two canapés at once. Never put something you’ve eaten off back on a tray that is still circulating. Equally, never double-dip your canapé back into the sauce once you’ve taken a bite.”
“It is very poor form to take two canapés at once
All sound advice, but will it be of any help this summer? What food trends are we set to encounter on the chichi canapé tray? “We’re not into fiddly, posh canapés — beetroot and goat’s cheese served on a silver spoon,” says Jemima Jones, half of the It-girl catering duo Tart London. “Instead, we’re aiming for a delicious, seasonal, unpretentious mouthful — something like crab linguini.” Yikes — how would one tackle that in a white blouse? “We’d serve it twizzled on a fork,” says Jones. “We also love spring salads in little bowls, with truffle ricotta at the bottom, smashed broad beans and peas on top, and lots of mint, basil, lemon and chilli. We add edible flowers and pea shoots, to turn it into a little garden.” Wintour would surely be shuddering at the thought of this.
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Now you know what to expect as a guest this summer, and how to navigate it with grace. But what if you’re the host? Here come the new rules of canapé service. Gulp.
Down in one
Do
Stick to seasonal ingredients. That means no beetroot in spring, or broad beans in November.
Serve a snazzy dip. Jemima Jones recommends taleggio, truffle and tarragon, or feta, yoghurt and coriander. Ditch guacamole for avocado, jalapeño, cashew and basil.
Keep it simple, but invest in good ingredients.Radishes with salted goat’s butter are easy, butlook impressive.
Feeling fancy? The cleverest new canapé is ceviche with a jalapeño, mint and basil dressing.
Don’t
Pile too high. Anything that has to be pinned in place with a cocktail stick is a pain. At best, your guests wind up with a meaty toothpick. At worst, they risk a stake up the nostril.
Invite smile saboteurs, such as spinach or poppy seeds, to the party. Ditto unpitted olives — they force your guests to fish around in their mouths, or spit stones into cupped hands. Remember, you want everyone to feel vaguely attractive.
Ambush guests with a surprise centre. A melting (sometimes scalding) middle is never welcome. Mustard-laced diddy hotdogs, arancini and runny scotch eggs are all culprits.
Serve morsels that can’t be trusted to stay in one piece. Wintour was right to ban bruschetta — the base is so brittle that the top invariably tumbles on first bite. Other risky morsels: anything in filo, and salmon and caviar blinis that topple as they leave the tray.