Until last week, Thyme was an “exclusive use” eight-bedroom 17th-century country house on the 150-acre Southrop Manor Estate, halfway between Witney and Cirencester. Across a gravel drive from a barn converted into a high-quality cookery school, it attracted corporate customers such as Aston Martin and Ralph Lauren, which held team-building meetings. Thyme was also popular for weddings because the barn could seat 80 people for meals, and it is next to a pretty village church. Kate Moss was married here, with guests including Naomi Campbell, Jade Jagger, Bryan Ferry and John Galliano (Vogue took the wedding snaps). Weddings and house bookings are still possible, but Thyme has become a regular hotel with rooms by the night.
In a nutshell
This is a classic Cotswolds stone house in elegant gardens. As well as the rooms in the main building, there’s a handful of stylish cottages. The owners are Caryn and Jerry Hibbert, respectively a doctor and an animation director. Caryn’s father Michael Bertioli, the multimillionaire physicist, provided much of the financial backing for the estate. The family bought the properties in 2002.
What are the rooms like?
The look in the rooms is upmarket country chic: exposed beams, chandeliers, plush sofas and chaise longues, Nespresso machines, wide beds. All is contemporary, although the pictures of flowers and herbs, gilded mirror frames and portraits of historical figures lend a traditional feel. The bathrooms come with waffle robes, roll-top bath-tubs and Miller Harris products. Room rates are high. The cheapest is called Horny Goatweed — each is named after a herb or flower — and it’s on the top floor with a sleigh bed beneath exposed beams (from £260 B&B). Lovage, also at the top, is tucked away on a corner (from £300 B&B). Guests are provided with apple and blackberry-infused gin nightcaps.
Which is the best room?
The Bergamot room is particularly large with good garden views (from £350 B&B).
So what’s the food like?
The Hibberts own the village pub, the Swan, which is a two-minute walk away (guests are given lanterns for returning at night). It’s been smartened up with eye-catching art, although original flagstones remain. The restaurant leads to a bar and a courtyard with a drinks kiosk. Many of the ingredients on the imaginative menu come from Thyme’s big kitchen garden. My starter of ham with peach and balsamic vinegar was fresh and flavoursome, although my companion’s broccoli fritto with soy sauce was “a bit greasy”. Mains of hake with pea puree and fried potatoes (like a posh fish’n’chips), and roast chicken with olives, capers and saffron aïoli were well-judged. The apricot and almond tart with honey ice cream was reason enough to book a table. Three courses are from about £30. Breakfast is served in the barn, with bacon and eggs, plus fresh orange juice.
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Who goes there?
David and Samantha Cameron have dropped by.
What else is there to do?
Explore the Cotswolds. Try a cocktail at the fun Baa bar in the barn (with seats shaped like sheep); £11.50 for a Manhattan. Or book a session at the cookery school.
The highs, the lows, the verdict
Eight out of ten
This is posh Cotswolds, if you can afford it. The food is good.
Need to know
Tom Chesshyre was a guest of Thyme House (01367 850174, thyme.co.uk), Southrop Manor Estate, Gloucestershire, GL7 3NX; B&B doubles are from £260, or one-bed cottages from £360; wheelchair access at one cottage; single occupancy discount of £25