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The Cool Hotel Guide: The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone, London W1

Expect antiques and wine-red walls
Expect antiques and wine-red walls

Tucked away just to the north of Oxford Street, close to Marble Arch, a curious new hotel has just opened in the former home of Edward Lear, the poet, artist and limerick writer. Like its one-time resident, there is something peculiar (in a charming way) about the 21-room hotel, which is spread across a wide Georgian townhouse that was previously the less well-appointed Edward Lear Hotel. Expect antique furniture, wine-red walls, gilded pictures, shelves with leather-bound books, nooks and crannies, and a sense of the eccentric. The interior was inspired by the eclectic interior of the Sir John Soane’s Museum (soane.org).


In a nutshell
This is the sister hotel to the popular Zetter and the Zetter Townhouse hotels in Clerkenwell. It’s on a quiet street despite being in such a central location, a short walk from Portman Square and Selfridges.


What are the rooms like?
Rooms are spread over seven floors and are reached via a lift plastered with old Punch magazine covers and along dark grey hallways decorated with Victorian prints and paintings. They come in various categories, with the cheapest being the Club rooms. These are from £282, room only (breakfast is extra), reminding visitors perhaps of Lear’s nonsensical line from The Owl and the Pussycat about taking “plenty of money, wrapped up in a five pound note”. That said, they are comfortable and plush with wide beds, smart bathrooms with bathtubs and Ren products, as well as antiques and eye-catching art. Room 24 is the pick of the Club rooms, while room 15 is slightly bigger with a four-poster (from £318).


Which is the best room?
Lear’s Loft takes up the whole of the fifth floor and is accessed by its own staircase. There’s a private terrace — cleverly screened by bamboo plants on one side — with a roll-top bathtub and a wooden deck. Guests who are inspired by Lear may wish to “dance by the light of the moon” (from £744).


So what’s the food like?
Food is served in a bar/lounge consisting of a huddle of wooden tables and sofas in a space that’s reminiscent of an old-fashioned gentlemen’s club: burgundy walls, a grandfather clock, fragments of neoclassical stonework, brass figurines. There’s a simple, pared-down menu with soups (£4.50), salads (£5.50), “house toasties” (£6), and potted shrimps with nutmeg butter served with crisp bread (£10). My grilled artichoke and marinated piquillo pepper was a sharp, tasty starter (£4.50), followed by a piping hot, cheesy pot of fish pie with salmon and peas (£7.50). The cocktail list is well-judged. Le Sphinx — neroli with a touch of honey, bitters and champagne (£9.50) — is served with ice and is refreshing, with a pleasing aftertaste of orange.

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Who goes there?
Film stars after a central London hideaway, plus those wanting an after-work cocktail.


What else is there to do?
Go shopping on Oxford Street, or perhaps visit the Sir John Soane’s Museum, which is two miles away in Lincoln’s Inn Fields and about a 40-minute walk.


The highs, the lows, the verdict
Eight and a half out of ten
It’s full of character, and worth stopping for a drink or a bite to eat even if you do not stay. Room rates are steep (but deals are sometimes offered).


Need to know
Tom Chesshyre was a guest of the Zetter Townhouse Marylebone (020 7324 4577, thezettertownhouse.com), 28-30 Seymour Street, London W1H 7JB; doubles are from £282; three wheelchair access rooms; no single occupancy discount