Staying at The Lodge in the Vale is like being at the youth hostel of your dreams. Except that it’s not a youth hostel, it’s in the place of a building that used to be one, which has been flattened and replaced by a smart little cedar-framed hotel (without a dormitory in sight).
The Lodge is tucked away in a beautiful spot three miles outside Keswick and a short drive to Dove Cottage, Wordsworth’s Grasmere home.
Mountains range all around, amid undulating fields divided by dry-stone walls. A minute’s stroll from the front entrance and you are at the path that leads to Sticks Pass, a small ascent with waterfalls and dramatic views. Half an hour on you reach the foothills of Helvellyn, one of the finest walks and climbs in the country — 3,117ft up, which Wordsworth managed when he was 74.
Amid all this, The Lodge stands proudly on the site of what was, many moons ago, an isolated schoolhouse built for the children of workers creating the nearby Thirlmere reservoir and later converted into a hostel.
This closed after the outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease in 2001. The site was bought by a local hotelier, Derek Sweeney, who tore down most of the (almost collapsing) structure.
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The result is 17 neat rooms with wood fittings and small shower rooms — including one larger family room, sleeping five, and three others with single and double beds. Do not expect luxury, super-trendy designs or a huge amount of space. The wardrobe in my room was tiny and you had to creep around to the other side of the bed.
But do expect crisp sheets, free wi-fi, large flat-screen TVs and the pleasant smell of cedar (imported from Russia). Walls are thick enough that you do not hear neighbours and there are superb views from all rooms.
On my visit last week there were walkers aplenty among my fellow guests: sensible waterproof trousers, sleeveless vests and hiking boots were the outfits of choice.
In the downstairs section there was a bright atrium leading to a bar that doubles as a breakfast room, with wine-red walls and black-and-white pictures of Lakeland scenes.
Over a coffee Derek told me that he owns two local pubs with rooms (the King’s Head and the Traveller’s Rest) and that he hopes he has created something totally different for the Lake District: “I wanted something smart that suited families and ramblers.”
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He has succeeded. Other than sandwiches, there are no evening meals at The Lodge, so I went to the Traveller’s Rest, on the edge of Grasmere, for dinner. This is a cosy 16th-century inn, with open fires, serving hearty soups and steaks — good portions, quick service and lots of ramblers.
Then I returned and woke to a pink sunrise above the peaks of Blencathra. What a great way to start any day.
Need to know
The Lodge in the Vale (01768 773331, lakedistrictinns.co.uk), St John’s in the Vale, Legburthwaite, Thirlmere, near Keswick CA12 4TQ. B&B doubles from £60. Rooms sleeping five are £120 to £140.
Room 6 out of 10 Service 9.5 Food 7 Value 9.5 Cool 7 Score 7.8