IN MOST European towns it’s usually your eyes that guide you. Meandering down shadow-filled backstreets, washing drying over balconies, coming across quaint churches in a tiny, sun-filled square or poking around small, dusty bookshops with small, dusty owners.
That is certainly true of Turin, host city for the Winter Olympics, with its blend of industrial and classical baroque architecture centred on the Piazza Castello. Here, however, in perhaps Italy’s most “foodie” city, you are as likely to be drawn by your nose — past markets, cafés, restaurants and shops, with sweet and savoury smells wafting out to tempt all but the strongest-willed. The largest city in Piedmont is not a place to visit if you’re on a diet.
Turin has Europe’s largest market, the Porta Palazzo, with rows of fruit and vegetables, whole swordfish, and mountains of gorgonzola and salami. It was here at 10 Via San Tommaso that Signor Luigi Lavazza opened a coffee shop in 1885 (still going strong today) before going on to conquer the world with his brand of roasted beans. And it was in Turin that vermouth was invented and where Alessandro Martini and Luigi Rossi started production of their eponymous drink in the mid-19th century.
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To the south, the town of Bra is the home of the worldwide Slow Food movement, an organisation with 70,000 members dedicated to expanding the minds, and stomachs, of those for whom a Happy Meal brings only sadness.
Indeed, the thought strikes me that perhaps the location for the Games is a dastardly Italian plot to fatten up the foreign athletes so that they can’t squeeze into their bobsleighs . . . or maybe I’ve been drinking too much coffee.
WHAT TO SEE
National Museum of Cinema (20 Via Montebello, 00 39 011 813 8560, www.museonazionaledelcinema.it) is housed in one of Turin’s landmark buildings, the Mole Antonelliana. A trip to the top of its dome is worth the few extra euros for the view over town towards the Alps.
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Madonna della Consolata (Piazza della Consolata, 436 3235) dates back to the 11th century and is decorated with hundreds of childlike paintings offered in thanks to the healing powers of the Virgin Mary. If you come looking for the Turin Shroud, you will be disappointed — it is brought out only on special occasions.
Castello di Rivoli (Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli, 956 5222, www.castellodirivoli.org), a contemporary art museum, is housed in a fortress that was started in the 11th century but finished in 1998.
WHERE TO EAT
For a mid-morning coffee go to either Baratti & Milano (27 Piazza Castello; 440 7138) or Mulassano (15 Piazza Castello; 547 990). Both are ornately decorated in a style that takes you back 200 years. Another good choice is Al Bicerin (5 Piazza della Consolata, 436 9325, www.bicerin.it), founded in 1763. For £2.50 you can sit at a marble table and drink bicerin — dark hot chocolate, espresso and cream.
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San Carlo (156 Piazza San Carlo; 532 586) is ideal for lunch. Its mirrors, statues and ornate columns impress as much as the food. Choose a local speciality such as vitello tonnato: slices of cold roast veal with a whipped sauce of mayonnaise, tuna and capers.
Splurge on dinner at Ristorante del Cambio (2 Piazza Carignano; 543 760). The three-course menu costs £55pp. The house speciality is fritto misto: a mix of veal, pork, liver, chicken, apple, zucchini, semolina and amaretti.
Moderately priced venues include Tre Galli (25 Via Sant’ Agostino; 521 6027) and Tre Galline (37 Via Bellezia; 436 6553). In winter the Bruschetteria Pautasso (4 Piazza Emanuele Filiberto; 436 6706) prepares bagna cauda, a fondue with olive oil, butter, anchovies, cream and garlic.
Page 2: Where to stay and shop ()WHERE TO SHOP
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For high-end fashion wander under the porticos of Via Roma. Its Hermès store avoids printing “Hermès” on its bags because, so they say, local women don’t like to boast.
Stock up on exquisitely wrapped chocolate made on the premises at Guido Gobino (15 Via Cagliari; 247 6245, www.guidogobino.it).
Marco Polo (28 Via Sant Agostino; 436 0037) is a hip design store that also serves drinks and the local take on tapas, stuzzichini. Near by on Via della Orfane is Bottega del Presepe, a small shop packed with Greek icons and statues of the Madonna in all shapes and sizes.
Mood (3 Via Cesare Battisti; 566 0809), part hip book store and part café, is especially good for aperitivo.
The city is home to the football giants Juventus. The club’s store at 4 Via Garibaldi (433 8709, www.juventus.com) has cool T-shirts that make ideal gifts.
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WHERE TO STAY
Le Meridien Lingotto Art & Tech (230 Via Nizza; 0800 0282840, www.lemeridien-lingotto.it) used to be part of the old Fiat factory and you can still jog on the former rooftop test track where the original Italian Job was filmed. A weekend break, including two nights’ accommodation and buffet breakfast, starts at £109 per room per night.
The 90-room Hotel Boston (70 Via Massena; 500 359, www.hotelbostontorino.it) is home to the owner’s art collection, including works by Lichtenstein and Warhol. Doubles start at £111 a night.
Ostello Torino (1 Via Albi, 660 2939, www.ostellionline.org) has dorm rooms from £10 (14 euros) a night.
NEED TO KNOW
Getting there: Will Hide travelled from Luton to Turin with easyJet (0905 8210905, www.easyjet.com), which has return fares from £41.
Further information: Turin Tourist Board (www.turismotorino.org) has a 48-hour “Torino Card” for £10.93 that offers unlimited travel on all urban public transport, and entry to more than 140 museums and attractions.
Winter Olympics: The Games continue until February 26 (www.torino2006.org). The UK operator Sportsworld (01235 555844, www.sportsworld.co.uk) can organise trips to Turin for the Games, including tickets.
Reading: Turin (Time Out), £11.99.