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DRINK

The best wines to cure a hangover

Hair of the dog — no egg involved

The Sunday Times

Even the most careful among us may be feeling a little the worse for wear this morning, which presents a conundrum for your columnist: how to broach the subject of alcohol when many of you will be swearing never to touch a drop again.

First things first: if you’ve overindulged I’d suggest you start the day with some hot water infused with lemon, honey and ginger, as this counters low blood sugar. Why not follow it with a steaming bowl of spicy noodles — much better than those elaborate hangover cures such as the positively Victorian option of mixing a raw egg with milk, sugar and brandy; or the infamous prairie oyster, a concoction comprising egg yolks (again), tomato juice, salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.

In my experience, as it’s New Year’s Day nobody will judge if you help yourself to a small glass of “hair of the dog”. I knew one elderly gentlemen who would always see in his new year’s hangover with a glass of Fernet-Branca (The Whisky Exchange, £24.25). I’m not sure the Italian bitters liqueur does it for me. A small glass of fizz is more my style: crisp and cold enough to revive the palate and restore some level of equilibrium.

Equally, a cold glass of still white wine with plenty of piercing fruit, such as the 2021 Château Le Coin Sauvignon Gris from Bordeaux (The Sunday Times Wine Club, £12.99), or a New Zealand white like the 2021 Yealands Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (Sainsbury’s, £11), will do the trick. If that’s going too far, you can always add a spritz of sparkling water.

Come the evening a soft, supple, easy-drinking red is in order. The 2018 Behind Closed Doors Reserva Red Lisboa (Majestic, £10.99) is just the ticket — rich and warming, steeped in mulberry and ideal with a hearty meal. Yes, these are the types of wine I’ll be drinking today — after a long walk, of course. Happy new year!

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2020 Don David Blend of Terroirs Malbec-Malbec
Argentina (14%)
Co-op, £9.25
This soothing blend of two high-altitude malbecs has abundant blackberry and plum, with focused flavour and good brisk acidity.

Viña Taboexa Albariño Galicia
Spain (12%)
Waitrose, £9.99
What better to lift the mood than a chilled glass of crisp, steely albariño? This Galician example has plenty of zingy citrus and floral aromas.

2021 Bodegas Care Garnacha Nativa Cariñena
Spain (13.5%)
Booths, £10
Here’s a rich, easy-drinking red with a touch of oak and sumptuous dark fruit. The perfect comfort wine with a steaming bowl of pasta.

2020 Arbousset Lirac Julie Rouffignac
France (14.5%)
Tesco, £12
The Lirac cru of the southern Rhône Valley is dependable and offers excellent value for money. This blend is velvety, full-bodied and warming.

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NV Simonnet-Febvre Crémant de Bourgogne
France (12%)
Tesco, £15
A crémant from the chablis producer Simonnet-Febvre that’s refreshing, brisk and clean — just the thing to blow off those cobwebs.

2021 Definition Bacchus
England (12.5%)
Majestic, £15.99
This top-notch, aromatic bacchus has lively peach and apricot flavour with inviting floral elements. A perfect pick-me-up to reinvigorate the spirits.

Bargain of the week

Fonseca Porto Organic Terra Prima Reserve
Portugal (20%)
Waitrose, down from £18.39 to £14.69
There’s always an excuse to enjoy a velvety, creamy port replete with lip-smacking blackcurrant and cherry. When it’s on offer, this elegant, robust example from the Douro is hard to resist.