Inside track
To really unravel Mallorca, you need to stretch your legs. This is walking country, so start with the least-trodden path of all, on uninhabited Cabrera island, an hour’s ferry ride away. Here, you can hike to the castle for some sensationally rugged scenery or flop on one of the pretty, deserted beaches. There is no hotel and only one bar, so if you fancy staying the night, take your own supplies – last ferry back departs 6pm. Back on the mainland, leave the coastal party scene and drive inland towards d’Alaró (PM210). Leave your car by the Restaurant Es Verger and take a walk up to the 13th-century Castell d’Alaró – from the battlements, the sweeping views of Palma Cathedral to the south and Formentor peninsula to the north are spectacular. Once back at the restaurant (00 34 971 182126; mains around £10), order lamb in olive oil and brandy, a local speciality. For a hearty hike through one of the most beautiful valleys on the island, start at the Mirador ses Barques restaurant on the C710 between Puerto Sóller and Lluc. This is a four-hour walk through pine forests and olive groves, with marvellous views over the cliffs. Halfway down, call by the farmhouse at Balitx d’Avall for a glass of fresh orange juice from Maria and Guillermo. When you arrive at Cala Tuent, there’s a great paella restaurant, Es Vergeret (00 34 971 517105; mains around £12) – it’s best to book. Wander down through the woods below the restaurant, either for a cooling dip in the sea or to catch a boat back to Sóller (Barcos Azules; 00 34 971 630170). The best tip of all? Cala Castell is the most secluded beach in Mallorca. To get there, put on some good walking boots at Cala Sant Vincenç, then head for Cala Barques; the path is well-signposted to Cala Castell. It’s a one-hour walk but the gorgeous bay is worth the slog, and en route you might well see one of the few black vultures left in the Med.
Secret sleep
Can Reus (00 34 971 631174, www.canreushotel.com) is hidden away in one of the prettiest villages on the island, Fornalutx. The former orange merchant’s house has a small pool and lovely views over citrus orchards. Doubles from £105, B&B.
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Palma from Bristol, Bournemouth, Birmingham, Stansted, Liverpool, Glasgow, Edinburgh, East Midlands and Leeds.