South of Arles, west of Marseilles and east of Montpelier lies the Camargue, the marshy delta of the Rhone and a vast protected wetland populated by grey herons, pink flamingos, white horses and black bulls. The capital of this waterworld is the village of Saintes Maries de la Mer, where local legend says that the three Marys — Magdalene, Jacob and Salome — were washed up after being banished from Jerusalem in AD33. Since then, the astonishing clarity of the local light has attracted artists such as Van Gogh and Picasso, but the cowboys of the Camargue care little for these outsiders.
Members of the brotherhood known as the Nacioun Gardien, these men have sworn to maintain and glorify the costume, habits and customs of the land of the bull, to promote the development of the language of Occitan and to spread the doctrines of the Félibrige — a 19th century association of Provençal poets led by Frédéric Mistral.
When they’re not protecting the faith, they’re raising the stout black bulls of region known as les taureaux, famed for their fighting ability as much as their flavour. But les gardiens don’t get the Camargue all to themselves. The fourth passenger on the ancient shipwreck was a servant called Sara, aka the black Madonna and patron saint of les gitanes — or gypsies. Every year, in the last weekend of May, thousands of Roma arrive in the village from France, Spain and eastern Europe, crowding into the church of St Marie and thronging the square outside. The highlight of the event is the parade of the statue of St Sara, escorted by grim-faced gardiens and pursued by a mob cheering “Vive Sainte Sara!” Her journey ends in the sea whence she came, and that’s when the drinking starts. If you fancy it, a double in the boutiquey Residence Bastide Blanche in the village costs £86 per night, through hotels.com. The nearest airport is Montpelier — fly from Gatwick with EasyJet (easyjet.com).