Ireland has only a couple of tiny vineyards at the moment, even though there are more grape varieties that we could ripen here. Global warming will change that, if a 2013 Met Office paper is correct in predicting that, by the mid 21st century, Ireland will be about 1.5C warmer. Until then, if you want a locally fermented fruit drink, try cider.
Apple juice, like grape juice, can be fermented and can contain tannins that end up in the final drink. Bulmers is the giant in the industry and has done a great deal to grow interest in cider here (and overseas with the Magners brand), but there are an increasing number of small-scale craft producers mirroring what is happening in the beer world. What craft means when it comes to cider is using fresh local apples, eschewing added colourings, artificial sweeteners and the use of diluted apple concentrate. It’s more like apple wine and, like wine, it can be a great match for food.
Arguably, cider has had an image problem. For a start, it’s sometimes seen as a drink that’s only drunk on hot days, but more damagingly, its “value segment” means it has been seen as a headbanger’s drink, to be consumed next to canals.
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The new craft ciders couldn’t be further removed from these spheres. At the premium prices charged, they scream sophistication, and most producers urge you to drink them at the dinner table year round.
Greatirishbeverages.com, promoters of the Dublin Wine Fest last April, have now organised an Irish Cider & Food Day on September 3. Participating venues will pair an Irish dish they have created with an Irish craft cider. Brands involved include Llewellyn’s, Dan Kelly’s, Longueville House, Craigies, Highbank, Con’s and Falling Apple.
Of course, the best way to learn is to sample. The annual Irish Craft Beer Festival runs at the RDS in Dublin from next Thursday to Saturday, August 27-29 (irishcraftbeerfestival.ie). Aside from beer producers, and a couple of distilleries, there will be eight cider producers to sample, including Dan Kelly’s and Falling Apple but also AC (Armagh Cider), Long Meadow, Scotts, Mac Ivors, Toby’s and Stonewell.
The place to buy these is usually an independent stockist. However, SuperValu and Tesco both stock Orpens (€8 for 4 x 33cl at Tesco), as well as Mac Ivors (€3.59 for 50cl) and Little Island (€3.49 for 500ml).
Most make a medium and a dry cider, but I find sugar can mask flavours. Craft ciders are different to the pub pint with stronger, tangy flavours, real bite and a little tannin. A strongly flavoured cheese would be perfect alongside any of these.