IN ITALIAN, tiramisu means “pick-me-up”, because the traditional flavours of coffee and cocoa powder in the rich mascarpone cream combine to give the palate a bit of a pick-me-up. Or perhaps it is because tiramisu is so richly delicious that you just have to pick it up whenever you see it.
As part of my week’s celebration of English strawberries, I want to introduce the summer version of tiramisu; a lighter, fresher, tarter, summery berry mascarpone dessert. It uses the same rich, creamy mascarpone enriched with egg yolks and lightened by egg whites, and the same soft, spongy savoiardi biscuits. It also has the same magical effect when it’s all thrown together in not-very-fussy layers and left alone for a few hours, in that it goes all cakey, soft and creamy, seeming to swell as the flavours roll and ripen. This one, however, is made with fresh strawberries and raspberries and sweet white wine, so every mouthful has a bit of fruit, mascarpone, cake and a hint of alcohol. Strawberry mascarpone is the Italian equivalent of English strawberries and cream, with a little of la dolce vita thrown in.
Mascarpone is a cream cheese rather than a cream, with a more voluptuous effect and more — how you say? — va va voom.
It is a real pick-me-up as well, although I’m thinking of calling it “can’t-put-me-down”.
Diary date: Jill will host tastings of new-season strawberries and give summer entertaining tips at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly, Central London, on Friday, noon to 1pm.
Prep: 20 min plus chilling
Serves 4 to 6
500g strawberries, hulled
250g raspberries
3 eggs, separated
100g caster sugar
500g mascarpone
200ml sweet dessert wine
200g sponge finger biscuits
METHOD
Halve or quarter the strawberries and toss with the raspberries. Beat the 3 egg yolks and caster sugar together until smooth, then whisk in the mascarpone. Beat the 3 egg whites in a separate bowl until peaky, then fold the whites through the mascarpone cream. Dip each biscuit in the wine just long enough to coat it and arrange a layer of wine-soaked biscuits on the base of a large but not deep serving dish. Cover with a layer of cream, and a layer of berries. Repeat each layer, finishing with a generous amount of berries. Leave for 3 to 4 hours. Dust with icing sugar and serve the same day.
www.timesonline.co.uk/foodandwine — for previous recipes from T2
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