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BRILLIANT BURGERS

Stack ’em high

Creating the perfect burger isn’t difficult — as long as you follow a few key steps, says the meat king. Plus, The Happy Pear serves up a sumptuous beet-burger
LOUISE HAGGER

Taste is only one element of the perfect burger; we eat with our eyes and our ears, too. There’s the smell of the ingredients in the burger and the fat in the beef; the feeling of a soft, warm bun in the hand (a perfect burger should never be eaten with cutlery); and the sound of the crunch of the lettuce when you take a bite.

The best way to achieve this perfection is to create a burger that is 10cm tall, 10cm wide and boasts eight layers:

Warm toasted bun top
■ Tomato ketchup
■ Juicy beef tomato
■ Slice of melted cheese
■ Seasoned patty of beef
■ Crunchy salad and fresh onion
■ Mustard mayonnaise sauce
■ Warm toasted bun bottom

Fat is imperative to a great burger, providing moisture and flavour. As a rule, most burger aficionados incorporate about 20% fat in their blend, but I know of at least one successful purveyor who prefers 30%, and damn fine burgers they are, too.

The way the meat is ground, and the cuts used in the grind, are the essential factors. It is important to start with fresh mince — the fresher the better — so if you can mince your own on the day of cooking, you’ll get to eat restaurant-quality burgers.

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My favourite blend is 90% chuck with 10% bone marrow. Of course, not everyone has the time or inclination to mince their own, but always try to buy the best-quality mince you can afford.

When it comes to fashioning the perfect patty, divide the ground beef into 180g-200g piles, taking care not to handle or mix too much. Gently form into balls using cupped hands, turning and loosely pressing the ball into an even patty about 12cm wide and 2cm thick. Place between squares of greaseproof paper and refrigerate for an hour before cooking. Ideally no more, though — fresh is best in almost everything, including a burger patty.

It’s important to note that at no point has any form of seasoning, filling or flavouring been added. Burger patties should be 100% pure beef — anything else is a beef sausage or stuffing.

The next most important element is the bun. Burger buns should be firm enough to hold the fillings without disintegrating into a soggy mess. The bun should be the same size when toasted as the burger is when cooked. They should be innocuous in flavour, with no herbs or spices. This is about the beef, the whole beef and nothing but the beef.

Sauces, pickles and salads are important but should be kept to a minimum. Their role is to insulate the bun from the juicy burger, to complement the star of the show and to offer texture, crunch and freshness. It goes without saying that all accompaniments should be of the best possible quality.