Clockwise from top: Crème de la Mer Renewal Oil, £155; Body Shop Oils of Life Facial Oil, £28; Aerin Rose Oil, £50; Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil, £33; and Sunday Riley Flora Hydroactive Cellular Face Oil, £70
Once reserved for slathering on your skin in the depths of winter, face oils have become an all-season staple in our skincare routines. “Sales have sky-rocketed in the past 18 months,” says Alexia Inge, co-founder of Cult Beauty. “Consumers have finally stopped fearing and started to understand the long-term benefits of oil.”
While veteran beauty editors wax lyrical about Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil (£33), its first skincare product, launched in 1965, there is also a surge of new offerings from Aerin, Sunday Riley and Chantecaille among others. Even Crème de la Mer, the last word in face creams, is launching its first face oil in October. “Celebrity make-up artists have been begging me for one,” says its senior vice-president of product development and innovation, Loretta Miraglia. “The Crème de la Mer Renewal Oil [£155] can be used to prime skin or be mixed into skincare and make-up for an extra-luminous glow.”
Alongside the moisture boost that traditional oils deliver, the latest multitasking formulas address uneven skin tone, wrinkles, redness, collagen production and oiliness (no harsh, greasy side effects to contend with). If you are a victim of shiny skin and are worried that an oil will only make it worse, you should reconsider: “Face oils work wonders on oily skin,” says Sylvie Chantecaille, founder of the eponymous beauty line. The facialist Alexandra Soveral, who launched her Forever Young Oil (£51) 10 years ago, says: “The natural ingredients send a message to the sebaceous glands that there’s enough oil, which rebalances and slows down sebum production.” Be careful what you choose, however, Inge warns: “Everyone is trying to launch a face oil, so keep in mind that many are substandard, with big, unrefined molecules that block pores. The ingredients to look for on the bottle label are jojoba, pomegranate, camellia, rosehip, grapeseed and organic argan oil.”
How to stay well oiled
“It’s simple to introduce oil into your regime,” says Sian Jones, head of product research and development at the natural beauty brand Balance Me. “Twice daily, massage 1-2 drops into your skin after cleansing and just before moisturising, until it’s fully absorbed.” Soveral warns against slapping the oil on, leaving product sitting on the skin’s surface. “Smooth it in with a facial-massage technique,” she says.
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Not just for grease monkeys
Facial oils work for all skin types — dry, combination or oily. The trick is to find a formula that is easily absorbed. Some may be too heavy, others too potent. “The right one will sink in quickly and effortlessly, giving dry, lacklustre complexions an instant hit of hydration,” Jones says. Avoid cutting corners on price, though: these tiny bottles can be expensive, but a little goes a long way.
Do keep your cream
“They have different functions,” Soveral says. “A face oil delivers essential vitamins that can penetrate deep into the skin, whereas a moisturiser protects from the environment and locks in moisture, but won’t go any deeper than the epidermis. You need both.” In fact, experts recommend mixing the two by adding a few drops of oil to your daily moisturiser for a glowing complexion.
Only roses will do
Rosehip is a key feature in the Aerin Rose Oil (£50, from September 14) and Chantecaille Rose de Mai Face Oil (£150). “It’s rich in essential fatty acids, which help to regenerate and restructure the skin, and support the strong antioxidant activity,” says Chantecaille. Sunday Riley Flora Hydroactive Cellular Face Oil (£70), aimed at dry to very dry skin, relies on Russian, Bulgarian and Turkish roses to tackle wrinkles, while intensely hydrating and calming the skin. The acupuncturist and aromatherapist Annee de Mamiel hails rose as one of the best (and safest) oils for all skin types: “It does a brilliant job of boosting capillary circulation and helping aid skin renewal. It keeps irritation at bay and is also a wonderfully uplifting aroma.”
Have no fear
If you’re dubious about how your skin will react, ease yourself in by applying a smattering to dry areas only.
An oil for every skin
For oily skin
Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil, £32
Extracts of rosemary, lotus and geranium help to normalise oil production, so it nourishes pores without clogging them.
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For all skin types
Clinique Turnaround Revitalizing Treatment Oil, £30
The lightweight formula won’t clog pores, while the hardworking antioxidants and exfoliating salicylic acid deliver a smooth, luminous complexion.
For dry skin
Aromatherapy Associates Revitalising Face Oil, £45
The potent essential oils are highly moisturising and ready to tackle the driest of dry skins.