When you think of Bordeaux your mind naturally turns to the dark, brooding reds of the region — those intensely savoury, ruby-coloured wines that have the scent of violets and blackberry, finishing with notes of spice and, with bottle age, cedar too.
So it might surprise you to learn that until the mid-20th century the region had as many white grapes planted as it did red — sometimes more. We know from Jane Anson’s comprehensive Inside Bordeaux that when Thomas Jefferson paid a visit in the 1780s, white grapes would be mixed with red to form a pale wine called “clairet”, which the Brits soon shortened to claret.
White bordeaux is now slowly returning to fashion as producers have learnt what it takes to make interesting examples — and have found suitable plots to plant the two principal white grape varieties, sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The vineyards of Graves, Pessac-Léognan and Entre-Deux-Mers have traditionally dominated production, but I have recently found excellent whites in Fronsac, Sauternes and further afield just outside the region in Bergerac. There’s a range of styles, but at their best these wines are creamy in texture and can take on flavours of peach from being aged in oak. This makes them a delightful accompaniment to summery dishes such as seafood and salads.
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2020 Dourthe Roqueblanche Sauvignon Blanc
Waitrose, £9.49
This is a bespoke blend for Waitrose produced from grapes cultivated in the northern Blaye region, on the right bank of the Gironde estuary, and from vineyards in Entre-Deux-Mers. Comprising 100 per cent sauvignon blanc, it’s well balanced, light yet lively, and packed with citrus and rich fruity flavour.
2019 Domaine l’Ancienne Cure Jour de Fruit Blanc Sec
Yapp Brothers, £13.95
The Bergerac producer Christian Roche is famous primarily for his powerful, sweet monbazillac, but he also crafts a stunning, tangy dry white from a Bordeaux blend, principally sauvignon blanc and semillon. The Jour de Fruit has an appealing zesty vitality reminiscent of a good-quality sauvignon from New Zealand. A terrific aperitif.
2020 Château George 7 Blanc Fronsac
Davy’s, £19.95
Established by Sally Evans in 2017 after a long career in consulting, George 7 is situated in Fronsac, an area renowned for good-value wines. I’ve been impressed with the estate’s output for a few years but the 2020 seems a step up in quality. A blend of 70 per cent sauvignon blanc and 30 per cent semillon, it’s both floral and citrussy, with a deep, smooth texture and a lovely long aftertaste.
2020 Le Blanc Sec de Suduiraut
Cambridge Wine Merchants, £19.50
Aficionados of sweet wine will know Suduiraut as the producer of one of the most impressive sweet wines in Sauternes. The château’s dry white — predominantly semillon, with a dab of sauvignon blanc — is quietly complex, with discreet notes of citrus and a little spice giving way to an enjoyably dry, crisp, nutty, almost honeyed finish.
2019 Château Climens Asphodele Blanc Sec
Berry Bros & Rudd, £26.50
The first dry white in the history of Château Climens, a Barsac estate famous for its sweet wines, this is a triumph for Bérénice Lurton, the manager and owner. Inquisitive oenophiles will appreciate this light, delicate, 100 per cent unoaked semillon, with zesty citrus notes and a pillow-soft texture. Smart work.
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2020 Château Bel Air Perponcher Réserve
The Wine Society, £9.50
In addition to white wines, there’s a growing number of interesting rosés being produced in the Bordeaux region. Tim Sykes at the Wine Society has sniffed out this brisk, easy-drinking, zingy blend of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. At the price it compares well with Provençal examples.
