Who could have predicted the success of malbec? Just a few decades ago this easy-drinking red grape was confined largely to Cahors in southwest France, where it was known as côt and used as a blending wine in Bordeaux. It’s been grown in Argentina since the 19th century but it wasn’t until the 21st that we began to see it on our shelves. And boy, did it take off. “Easily the most popular red grape variety,” was how one supermarket buyer recently described it to me.
In truth, I’m baffled by its popularity. It’s not that I don’t like it; I just find it a bit vanilla. But perhaps that’s the appeal. Like New Zealand sauvignon blanc it’s very consistent (it’s difficult to find a really bad bottle), and at its best combines dark fruit aromas with lovely richness on the palate. It’s smooth, not too acidic, not too ripe, pairs well with hearty red meat and is reasonably priced. I can’t help but feel that another factor in its success is that it’s easy to pronounce. This is not a spurious point. Think of the great styles and grape varieties that have attracted enthusiastic followings: chablis, rioja, sancerre, chardonnay, merlot, shiraz. They all tend to comprise two or three syllables and are easy to remember. Perhaps that’s why the Italian white grape variety fiano has done so well recently.
Argentine examples such as Opi Sadler’s popular, velvety 2022 Malbec (The Sunday Times Wine Club, £13.99) display many of the grape’s charms, but its dominance is not confined to regions such as the Uco Valley and high-altitude Salta, where producers are dialling down the alcohol and fruit, making wines with greater elegance and freshness. France is fighting back and in Cahors there are some interesting examples, such as the figgy and inky Morrisons The Best Cahors Malbec (£9.75).
2020 Château de Hauterive Cahors
France (14%)
The Wine Society, £8.50
Blended with 30 per cent merlot, this juicy malbec has plenty of ripe acidity and fruit. Great value.
2022 Don David Blend of Terroirs Malbec
Argentina (14%)
Co-op, £10
There’s a lovely texture and dark fruit in this blend of two malbecs from different altitudes.
Advertisement
2021 The Best Gran Montaña Uco Valley Malbec
Argentina (14.5%)
Morrisons, £11
An intense and powerful example, dark violet in the glass and with vibrant freshness on the finish.
2019 Finest The Trilogy Malbec
Argentina (13.5%)
Tesco, £13
From Mendoza’s respected Catena family, this is supple, well balanced and flavourful, with hints of plum.
2021 Malbec by Pulenta Mendoza
Argentina (14.5%)
Berry Bros & Rudd, £14.50
The great Pulenta estate’s rich, smooth malbec has abundant raspberry and a savoury finish.
2021 Norton Malbec Reserve Finca Argelo
Argentina (14.5%)
Waitrose, £15.99
There is a pleasing, restrained feel to this brooding red, with chocolate, vanilla and spice.
Bargain of the week
2022 Taste the Difference Soave Classico
Italy (12.5%)
Sainsbury’s, £8
A crisp, clean white from the heart of the Soave region, packed with fresh floral aromas.
