Click here to see Jack Hill’s photographs from New York
NEW YORK Fashion Week might be home to a clutch of big-name designers, the kind whose advertising revenues could reduce a glossy magazine to its knees, but behind the often commercial collections the majority of designers are happy to remain in the background and let the clothes do the talking.
Easy, perhaps, when your statements are as simple to comprehend as Ralph Lauren’s “home on the ranch” pronouncements. Yesterday’s show comprised the usual offering of country tweed suiting, cable knit ponchos and some rather comic Eighties tartan dresses.
Sometimes it’s refreshing that there aren’t the theatrics that you encounter in Paris or Milan. But sometimes that makes the clothes appear even more bland.
If there is a designer to make up for the lack of drama, though, it’s 24-year-old Zac Posen. Such is the hype of a Posen show that it’s a miracle that any of the clothes live up to the buzz (usually self-perpetuated) that surrounds him. Last year Sean Combs (aka Diddy) bought a 50 per cent interest in his business for a reputed $2 million (£1.1 million).
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Posen is perceived as being a smooth operator, working trunk shows from New York to Houston with the panache and confidence of a designer twice his age and with a lot more experience. But what of his clothes? In the past his collections have been accused of having an “emperor’s new clothes” feel, presenting what were essentially party frocks with no coherent vision. Thursday night’s statement, made largely in black and navy, had far more high points. There were fewer of the glamour gowns that made his name and much more snappy tailoring that would appeal to his following of young urbanites. Military details on slick coats with three-quarter-length sleeves or capes proved to be hits, as did the tuxedo detailing that was reworked on to strapless black cocktail dresses and skirts with gentle asymmetric hems. Trickier to pull off were the voluminous skirts that were severely tapered in.
The cut and simplicity of his evening gowns in navy satin that were expertly pleated, slightly bandaged and draped made for a dramatic finale.
Eveningwear that was more sombre featured in Francisco Costa’s show at Calvin Klein. The designer, who has been at the creative helm for the past 2½ years, has successfully adhered to the Klein spirit of fluid column dresses and simple lines. This collection was no exception, with long silk dresses and herringbone patterns. The usual juxtaposition of a cashmere riding coat against a simple, chiffon dress worked to beautiful effect.
As New York fashion week drew to a close last night, Karl Lagerfeld launched his first Lagerfeld collection in the Big Apple. “There’s a northern influence — greys, browns and blacks, like Ibsen and Strindberg”, he told Women’s Wear Daily.