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Scandinavian city breaks: Oslo

Organic cafes in cobbled courtyards, tapas with a Scandinavian twist and Louis XVI-style luxury – find it all in the Norwegian capital

Sunny morning stroll
Don’t be fooled by the leafy maple trees and rolling lawns – Vigeland Park is no ordinary open space. Sprinkled across its 32-odd hectares are 212 eccentric granite and bronze sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland. The intriguing pieces – notably a monolith of entwined bodies reaching for heaven – provide a commentary on humanity. And you thought you were just going for a walk…

Alfresco lunch
A real local secret, Kolonihagen (Frognerveien 33; 00 47 9931 6810, www.kolonihagen.no; booking essential) is Oslo’s loveliest cafe. Tucked away in a cobbled courtyard, the joint’s famed for its organic salads, sarnies and cakes. The florist next door fills the air with lavender. Mains around £16.

Souvenir pitstop
Yes, patterned jumpers have made a big comeback in the UK but they’ve never gone out of fashion in Norway – and the love affair shows no sign of subsiding. Pick one up at Basarhallene, a 19th-century indoor bazaar behind Oslo Cathedral touting an array of handicraft and souvenir stalls. Knitwear has never been so cool.

Decadent drinks and dinner
Start with a Knickerbocker Martini beside the crackling fire at Bar’Deaux (Rådhusgata 30; 00 47 9173 2554, www.bardeaux.no), a sumptuous lounge bar inspired by the Moulin Rouge, before dinner at harbourside restaurant The Edge (Lille Stranden 9; 00 47 2283 9090, www.theedgerestaurant.no). Feast on king prawns with mango salsa while fishing boats bob outside in the soft evening light. Mains around £29.

Wee small hours
With a dozen varieties of Champagne behind the bar, and DJs on the decks until 3am, things can get wild at Soliis (90 Henrik Ibsens St; www.soliis.no). It’s easy on the eye, with slick black-and-orange decor and industrial lighting, and so central you’re sure to be within stumbling distance of home.

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Sunglasses brunch
Grab a table at Delicatessen (Søndregate 8; 00 47 2271 4546, www.delicatessen.no) for tapas with a Norwegian twist. It’s in the heart of Grünerløkka, Oslo’s boho district of cafes, fashion boutiques and markets. Try the locally caught cod with buttered cabbage. Dishes from £2.

Only in Oslo
You needn’t venture all the way to the western fjords for a glimpse of Norway’s epic natural wonders. Oslo has one on its doorstep – Oslofjord. The forested shoreline is peppered with quaint villages and grand summerhouses, sandy beaches and ancient ruins. Boat tours from £25pp (00 47 22 404500, www.oslofjordcruise.no).

Bed for the night
For the best of both worlds – period glamour and 21st-century luxury – it’s got to be the Grand Hotel (Karl Johans Gate 31; 00 47 2321 2000, www.grand.no). The last word in decadence since 1874, this Louis XVI-style property is homely (hand-woven tapestries and cosy rooms) yet hedonistic, with an outdoor bar on the top floor and a modern spa. And if it’s good enough for Nobel Peace Prize winners… Doubles from £160, B&B.