Sunny morning stroll
The harbour is an intriguing fusion of old and new. Start in Nyhavn – the colourful, cobbled canal area that was once home to Hans Christian Andersen. Turn left past the striking copper-and-glass Royal Playhouse, with a waterfront cafe overlooking the bohemian Christianshavn neighbourhood. Then follow the boardwalk to Kastellet, a 17th-century fortress with a star-shaped moat.
Alfresco lunch
At Adam Aamann’s (Øster Farimagsgade 10; 00 45 3555 3344, www.aamanns.dk), build your own picnic: blue cheese with hazelnut nougatine, or pork with rhubarb, honey, and walnuts on sourdough rye. Then head to Østre Anlæg Park to feast your eyes – it’s where the city’s fittest bodies sunbathe. Picnic boxes around £20.
Souvenir pitstop
Every piece of porcelain at Royal Copenhagen (Amagertorv 6; www.royalcopenhagen.com) is hand-painted. The ‘Blue Fluted Mega’ pattern is elegant and timeless – like the best of Danish design.
Decadent drinks and dinner
The Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) is where hipsters go to get slaughtered. Fiskebaren (Flæsketorvet 100; 00 45 3215 5656, www.fiskebaren.dk; mains around £25) serves sensational seafood in black-and-white surroundings; while deliciously scruffy PatéPaté (Slagterboderne 1; 00 45 3969 5557, www.patepate.dk) morphs from rustic restaurant to sexy wine bar after midnight.
Wee small hours
Union (Store Strandstræde 19; www.theunionbar.dk) is a speakeasy serving Prohibition-inspired hooch. Next door, models get messy at Simons (Store Strandstræde 14; www.simonscopenhagen.com), but you’ll have to befriend a member to get in.
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Sunglasses brunch
Eco-minded Michelin-starred chef Jesper Julian Møller draws crowds to its self-service spread at harbourside Tolboden (24 Nordre Toldbod; 00 45 3393 0760, www.restaurantjulian.com; brunch £23-£30). Go early for pastries, pâtés, cheeses and bacon.
Only in Copenhagen
When the hangover hits, Danes turn to hot-dogs. Find the nearest pølsevogn (sausage wagon) and order røde med brød (alarmingly red sausage with relishes, pickles and bread on the side).
Bed for the night
Big and bustling SKT Petri (Krystalgade 22; 00 45 33 45 9100, www.hotelsktpetri.com) is smack in the centre of town, and rooms on the fourth floor upwards have enchanting views across the red-tiled rooftops. Doubles from £140, room only.