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Santorini Grace Hotel, Greece

The pool showers, modern Greek food and charming staff give this hotel the edge

Part of the Grace Hotels group that also includes a property on the bohemian island of Mykonos, the Santorini Grace perches at the edge of a cliff overlooking this Aegean island’s still-smouldering volcano and the Skaros Rock, a jagged mountain that looks for all the world as if a bird of prey is eyeing the visitors opposite.

For the energetic - and on Santorini that’s a pretty important attribute given its terrain - there’s the chance to walk around Skaros’ (Santorini’s former capital) Venetian ruins and look at the volcano that pretty much wiped out anything in its way 1,500 years ago.

The 150 steps down to the hotel - and more importantly, up - mean this is not a place for those with walking difficulties, although the glass of cool Champagne and iced towel with which every guest is welcomed, eases the pain.

As you sip the bubbly, take a moment to pity the sweating porters whose job it is to haul your cases up and down the vertiginous incline. This is a challenging environment, hence the virtual Santorini-wide rule of no children under 14 - most properties hang precariously at cliff-edge.

But the view at the end is definitely worth the hike and, relaxing by the pool whose bar serves some great Greek salad on one of the double sun loungers, is an extremely pleasant way to pass the time and take in the view that extends to the islands of Thirasia, Palaia and Nea Kameni.

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Just before a dip in the pool - a must in the all-enveloping heat - Grace also has some quirky poolside showers that consist of standing on discs that propel water upwards over the guest. Bizarre, but fun.

Just a few steps down from Grace, there is also the minute 15th century church of Agios Ioannis Katiforis, built in classic Greek island style with blue roof and blazing whitewashed walls. Guests can visit on Saturdays, while the chapel can also be used for private services and blessings.

The 17 rooms will be complemented next year by four new ones as well as a second pool bar and spa.

The mid-priced honeymoon suite is large and cool with electric blinds and lava rocks across the front windows to keep the heat out. A large plasma television is near the enormous bed that features four separate layers for comfort. Several pillow options are also available, while an ‘aroma station’ featuring four different scents, perfumes the room.

There is free wi-fi, while the friendly reception staff can also provide laptops to borrow and many DVDs, including of course, My Big Fat Greek Wedding.

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The German-Greek combo of management couple Martina and Joseph, make sure every guest is treated with courtesy and charm, while, and this is important, the staff seem genuinely happy in their job.

Staying in the Honeymoon Suite, a massive walk-in double shower and double sinks are situated to the side of the open plan room, with herbal skin and hair care products supplied by Athens company, Korres.

An outside Jacuzzi and double rocking bed are also available, although for the more energetic, there is the Kinesis TechnoGym small gym near reception. A spa masseuse is on call for in-room treatments.

Although guests often eat out, the Santorini Grace does have a small and impossibly romantic terrace where you can watch the fiery sunset dip into the Aegean.

Head chef Spyros prepares a fresh range of meals including a starter of grilled calamari on black eye beans salad with citrus and local herbs marinade (€14), a main of braised lamb shank served on a black truffle fava (a real gem on Santorini with myriad uses) base and glazed roots with thyme honey (€23) and a Greek cheese platter with Graviera, Metsovone, Ladotiri and roasted Haloumi to finish (€15).

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Desert wines include (prices by glass) Vinsanto 2003 (SantoWines Co-Op - €6.50), Vinsanto Reserve 8 Years (SantoWines Co-Op - €9), Vinsanto 1996 (SantoWines Co-Op - €14) or Don Pedro Ximenez 1979 (Bodegas Toro Albala - €12)

Need to know: Santorini Grace Hotel, Santorini 84700; Tel : (+30) 22860-21300; www.santorinigrace.com; res@santorinigrace.com

The bottom line: Rates start at €300 per night for the smallest deluxe rooms, although they are perfectly well-sized. Other options include junior and superior suites as well as the honeymoon suite with plunge pool at €700 per room in high season. And for those looking to really splash out, the Grace Suite even has its own indoor Jacuzzi and colour changes on the television to reflect mood. That comes in at a cool €1,000 per night in high season.

Best thing: stunning view of Caldera and volcano opposite

Worst thing: steep climb up and down to reach hotel

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Access all areas: no wheelchair access.

Service: 9 out of 10

Food: 7 out of 10

Value: 8 out of 10