Volume
Seek out Tulip skirts, overblown sleeves, coats with puff, rolled hemlines.
The look Summer gave us the tulip, so winter offers the onion — there’s no deflating our obsession with volume. Contrary to popular belief, it can be surprisingly flattering; just approach with caution. Nervous shoppers should start with a bubble skirt that doesn’t add bulk. Principles, Wallis and New Look are weighed down with them, so expect significant discounts. Cristobal Balenciaga deemed the centre of the back the most elegant place for puff.
M&S and Stella McCartney heeded the advice and produced opera coats with serious swing. Cocoon sleeves will be big in both senses for winter: look for Sportmax blouses. Worried about how to manage your outerwear? Burberry has voluminous coats.
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Graphic print
Seek out Bold tessellations, artist splashes, stripes, stars and brocade.
The look When searching for prints, skip the florals; what you need for winter is graphic repeats. Miuccia Prada was ahead of the game with the abstract stars she splashed across dresses and skirts, but there’ll be a race to get them. Failing Miu Miu, go straight to Marni, which has bold repeats on classic coats that you can layer for warmth. Checks and tartans were an unexpected summer trend — tone down the cowgirl edge and you’ll be able to slot these into grunge or androgyny for as long as the weather permits. If you can add texture, there will be no looking back. Nicole Farhi and DKNY at Fenwick are brimming with grainy brocades. Or walk across to Emma Hope if you want to keep prints on your toes.
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Androgyny
Seek out Tailored trousers, lace-up shoes, skinny scarves, suits and fitted knitwear.
The look As James Brown put it, “this is a man’s world” — or at least it will be by October. Crisp shirting and natty blazers sit neatly on the gender fence. Margaret Howell has several roomy shirts that would look just as good under a tailored three-piece as they do with classic knitwear. Or head to John Lewis for shirts in every stripe and style. Trousers are striding back at Gap with reduced prices on the two key styles, wide-leg, and for those with tiny thighs, cigarette pants. As Helmut Newton would agree, nothing smoulders androgyny like a tuxedo — for a lifetime investment, try Yves Saint Laurent. It has several with cropped trousers. And kick your heels off for sensible brogues: just keep them well polished.
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Mod
Seek out Shift dresses, cropped jackets, cigarette pants, washed-out metallics, square-toed shoes
The look The Sixties trend is evolving from Twiggy’s girlie baby-doll to the edgier style of Peggy Moffitt, but there are still plenty of overlaps. Simple, tailored and as classic as the Beatles, the shift dress is rolling into winter — look out for starchy, futuristic-feeling materials and slashed necklines. Also hunt down collarless, cropped jackets. Topshop has plenty, which is good news as Nicolas Ghesquière pinned the Balenciaga winter collection on their boxy appeal. Mod is more about an overall silhouette — raised waist, short hemline, clean edges — than key pieces. At Louis Vuitton, you can’t move for micro-skirts and square-cut jackets, or try the modern edges at Unique at Topshop.
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Grunge
Seek out Oversized parka jackets, heavy knits, long skirts and clumpy footwear.
The look Fake tans, enormous diamonds and Roberto Cavalli-style showmanship are soon to be stamped out — grunge is back. It might not sound appealing, but when Marc Jacobs dedicates his winter collection to scuffed-up layering, you may as well surrender. Heavy knitwear is a good halfway house; find long, loose cardigans at Betty Jackson and J&M Davidson. Look out for floor-length skirts too — Dries van Noten’s linen or Rick Owens’ jersey, biased-cut skirts.
Outerwear should be oversized and utilitarian, as shown by Prada. If a designer parka is a concept too far, try Millets or Blacks. As this Sass & Bide look proves, grunge needn’t mean moody teenagers. A printed day dress can look unkempt if you break up the prettiness with leggings and heavy accessories (tattoos are optional). Traditionalists should dust off their Dr Martens.